MDE9700AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

remove top of dryer,remove dryer door, then remove front of dryer themostat is in front on exhaust duct has one white and one yellow wire two screws hold it in . Door switch is a push in connection with a three wire connector.

Took the top back screws off (2) then pulled the top toward me and it came off. This left four screws that hold on the front control panel. I took out this four screws, which the control panel came out. You will then have to disconnect the door switch. Then I took off the front door, which which has two screws. Then I took the four screws out of the front panel,which are all on the top below the front control panel. You then have to pull up on the front panel to lift it up, it is sitting on two slots. This will give you excess to the heater. There will be one screw take it out and the heater will pull out also there will be six wires that you will have to disconnect so pay attention where they go (write it down.) You will have thermostat 2 and 3 and heater switch. Test them with a ohmmeter, my thermostat 3 was bad. There will be two screws to take out to replace the part. Put the wires back and put the dryer back together like you took it apart.

The kit gave me parts for two different styles of gas valve and told me what to look for to identify one from the other. Very easy conversion.

Remove 2 screws which hold dryer/washer together on back. Remove 2 screws back top dryer and slide top back. Remove 4 screws top dryer that hold timer panel. Remove 6 screws that hold front panel on..4 on top of panel and 2 inside door. Disconnect wires to door at slide connection. Unplug dryer..this is actually 1st step. Remove 1 screw on heating element (lower right). I found that by removing the red wire the element will wiggle loose and come far enough out to disconnect black wire. There are 4 other terminal connections which are jumpers that will slide out with element. Note where wires attach and remove all. Use Multi meter on highest ohms setting or a continuity tester to test heating element - thermostats - thermal fuse. They should all have continuity between terminals. Replace any that don't . My thermal fuse was open (no continuity). I replaced it and had heat..but inadequate heat. Got new thermostat which fixed problem. Video I watched said to replace them together..I guess he was right. I suggest that while you have dryer pulled out to take time to check/clean dryer vent..also flapper outside.(mine had lint built up in hinge and prevented flapper from closing letting cold air and anything else in). Parts Select has great videos/skematics and even with "snail mail" delivery part was there in 2 days. They are the best!!

After reading other posts, I learned that "tO" meant that the thermistor was open. Also, I read that this part would bench test with a multimeter correctly but could still malfunction in the dryer. FIRST UNPLUG DRYER. After checking all of the exhaust ducting including inside the dryer for any blockages that could result in an overheating problem I decided to order a new thermistor. To replace thermistor: First, there are two screws at the rear top that you remove and the top tilts up and comes off. There are four screws on the top front that removes the front control panel. Next remove the screws at the top of the dryer, two screws in recesses behind the door and tilt front forward while unplugging the door switch. Lift and remove front with door attached. Remove screws from exhaust duct and slide down and out. Thoroughly clean inside of duct and fan blades. Clean out any other lint build up. Locate thermistor to the right of duct, unplug and remove two screws. Replace with new part and reassemble while not forgetting to plug the door switch back in. At the rear of dryer, remove screws around exhaust duct and remove. Dryer will have to be slid away from wall about three feet to remove duct from inside dryer. Clean thoroughly and check/clean and check for blockages in ducting from dryer to outdoors. Re assemble making sure rear duct engages the front ducting properly.Plug dryer back in and enjoy.

The repair was pretty easy to install the heat element, but had to replace several other parts do to the manufacturer that had broke off

I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.

Test thermal fuse for resistance. If has 0 resistance you have a bad fuse. Also check voltage going to wall outlet. Must use at least 600 volt tester. Motor will run on 110 volts, but will not activate heating element. Heating element must have 240 volts to operate. Always make sure you turn off power when working on electrical problems. Be safe and good luck.

Since there were no troubleshooting steps, I had to start replacing the items according to the list that showed the parts that have fixed the problem for others. I ordered one at a time until I got the part that fixed the problem. I went through 4 parts before I replaced the gas solenoids which is what fixed the problem. By the time I was done, I could disassemble that dry in about 5 minutes or less.

changed high limit switch, and sensor grid and thermo fuse

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

After removing the top (2 screwa) I removed the control panel (4 screws), top support that held the control panel (3 screws), the front pane (6 screws and one wiring harnes) and the internal panel (5 screws and two wiring harnesses) With these removed I loosen the belt by pulling it off of the tensioning pulley and remeove the drum assembly. I took the beltoffof the old drum and reversed the process to re-install the drum. This is the 3rd drum for this dryer,the other ones were replace due to the felt seal failing.

IMPORTANT!!! Unplug the unit first!! 1 - Remove two screws on the back of the top of the unit. Pull back a little on the top to release it from underneath the control unit on the front of the dryer (the piece with the dial and buttons). 2 - Remove the four screws from the control unit. They are located at the top of the dryer. Pop off the control unit - don't worry about breaking any wires as there are none. 3 - Remove the front of the dryer by removing the four screws that are NOT used for the door and door latch. I had also removed the door latch and door but I don't think it is necessary to remove them. The front will swing out from the bottom where you can unhook it and remove it. 4 - the heating element is located on the front of the unit, bottom right. Either draw a diagram of the wires or take a picture of them with your cell phone. Smart phones are great for this as you can zoom the picture if necessary. Remove the wires (they just push on but it may take some effort to get them off). It's either one or two of the wires that are not part of the wiring harness and they go from one part of the element to another so don't get excited if these wires fall down - you haven't done anything wrong, they are just loose. The one screw in the front holds the element in (the back of the unit just rests in that hole). Remove the screw and pull the unit out. Put the new element in, hook up the wires before positioning the element. Put the screw back in that holds the element and put the rest of the dryer back in the reverse order.

after removing 2 screws securing top of dry i isolated the humming noise to the electronic board. Dryer would not turn on but drum light would work. 2 screws hold the electronic mount, and 1 screw hold electronic board. all electrical connection on board easily unplugged. connected new board installed in mount with 1 screw and then installed mount with two. plugged in and pressed power switch and electronic timer came up and dry started at the press of cycle start knob. the key to this repair was the stuck relay humming sound being generated by the either the relay or transformer on electronics control board.