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MDE3000AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MDE3000AYW
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Dryer ran hot
Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat (Limit: 200-30)
  • Larry from Swanton, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer made loud screeching noise.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
Parts Used:
Idler Arm and Shaft Dryer Idler Pulley Wheel & Bearing Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Dryer Screw Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Idler Shaft Retaining Ring
  • Gene from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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no heat, coil wasnt getting hot
took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...
Parts Used:
Thermal Fuse (Limit: 183)
  • matthew from Central Islip, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer allways dried hot- no matter how the temperature control was set
First- unplug the dryer!!
Remove the metal plate behind the control panel .
Note the colors of what wire went where on the old temperature control, and carefully pull them off of it.
Snap out old control and snap in a new part- (snapping in the new part took a bit of effort).
Replace the wires just as they had been originally connected.
Voila!
Parts Used:
Temperature Switch
  • Chester from New Hartford, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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knob retainer hole was broken
Ordered the part..... waited a few days fro it to arrive, (it came quite quick considering). Sat down in my easy chair and assembled the knob and gave it to my wife to slip it on the dryer. Whew, I was beat.... hehe
Parts Used:
Timer Dial Skirt Timer Knob Insert Cap Timer Knob Base
  • Wayne from Hamilton, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wasn't heating sufficiently/consistently.
Removed front cover, removed old heating unit, installed new thermostat,heating coil inside the dryer and finally replaced the fuse in the front. The main complication was reaching the screws for the heating coil, not really complex.
Parts Used:
Thermal Fuse (Limit: 183) Heating Element - 240V High Limit Thermostat (Limit: 200-30)
  • Kathy from Lilburn, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeeky dryer
Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Dryer Screw Idler Arm and Shaft Idler Shaft Retaining Ring Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Idler Spring with Rubber Dampener
  • Phil from PROCTORVILLE, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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metal banging noise as dryer drum rolls
Used PartSelect videos to first diagnose the problem which was worn drum felt seal. Then, used the same videos to replace parts, both needed and convenient to replace b/c of already have access.

While the videos were very helpful, first timers should be aware that there are significant knowledge gaps between a professional's easy repair vs an amateur attempting the same.
Parts Used:
Dryer Idler Pulley Wheel & Bearing Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches Lint Filter Dryer Drum Felt Seal Shroud Seal Front Glide Kit Drum Support Roller Kit
  • Leo from HOUSTON, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer continuously running, no timer advance, dampness indication stayed on "wet"
Took 3 screws out of the back of the back of the machine and tilted the control panel houseing forward. Slid the module free of it's track and unplugged the bundled wiring plug. Plugged new module, relpaced in is slot and put the control panel back in place
Parts Used:
Moisture Sensor
  • keith from saluda, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Our timer dial had been broken for some time, cracked around the connection to the control panel. I had been able to epoxy glue it to where it was functional, but that eventually failed. We were using a pair of pliers to set the timer on the dryer.
I was able to easily find the replacement part on PartSelect, and the schematics showed me how to easily disassemble my dial (which has three parts) so that only the broken part needed to be replaced. I used a tiny straight-slot screwdriver to pop the pieces apart. Once we received the new piece, it was very simple to pop the pieces back together and have a fully functioning new dial!
Parts Used:
Timer Dial Skirt
  • Joanne from Missouri City, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Will not start all lights on,makes a ping sound on the control panel when you push the start button
Replaced thermal fuse and replaced door switch
Parts Used:
Thermal Fuse (Limit: 183) Door Switch Kit
  • james from CAMBRIDGE, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • John from Warsaw, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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door switch broke
remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • richard from pleasant valley, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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An underwire form a bra shorted the element burning it out
Knowing most mfgs. put prints under the conturo panal we started there.
Diagonstics required a multi meter.
The part was removed and the internet serched.
My local parts center was more expensive and would have to order the part. I called Partselect
found exactly what i needed. placed the order with 3 to 5 day ground. Fedex arived the next day. The new part was installed and the dryer smoke tested. The dryer works great.
Parts Used:
Heating Element - 240V
  • Steven from Town Creek, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Blower wheel was wobbly about the shaft, producing a lot of vibration and noise.
Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.

Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.

Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.

Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.

Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.

Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.

There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.

Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.

Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.

Disconnect the wires from the door switch.

Remove the shroud.

Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.

There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.

Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.

Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.

Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.

Install the new blower wheel.

Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.

Reinstall the circlip.

Reinstall the metal blower cover.

Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.

Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.

There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.

Do the same with the front felt drum seal.

Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.

Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.

Lower the top of the dryer into position.

Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.

Repeat with the other bracket.

Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.

Install the plastic door stops.

Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.

Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
Parts Used:
Dryer Retaining Ring Blower Wheel Clamp Blower Wheel
  • Christopher from SAN DIEGO, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the MDE3000AYW
61 - 75 of 757