MDB8959SFZ4 Dishwasher - Instructions

Turn off breaker to dishwasher.
Remove lower basket.
Drain any water using a wet vac.
Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver.
Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
Disconnect plug wire on pump.
Install new pump by turning clock wise.
Reattach wire plug.
Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks.
Replace cover plate.
Done.

1. Remove front of door with torx screws around inside top and sides of door.
2. Unclip and remove plug with two wires for dish soap solenoid. You may have to lie on your back or use a mirror to see the location of the small clip retaining the plug.
3. Unclip and remove dispenser module. Here's the rub: the clips used to retain the unit in the door panel of my dishwasher are tabs cut in the stainless steel cut-out and rolled back at a 90 degree angle to retain their springiness. They seat against the back edge of three plastic ridges along the top, bottom and one along each side of the dispenser module. The key is to remove the module without permanently bending these tabs, thereby losing their springiness and destroying their ability to clip tight against the new module to hold it in. I had some success slipping 3 pieces of flashing under the stainless tabs along the top and sides of the old module, allowing the plastic retaining ridges to ride under the tabs all together and move forward to disengage the clips without permanently bending the tabs.
4. Reassembly is just the reverse.

Make sure you have everything you need before you start. The upper rack adjuster broke when the left track failed and needed to be replaced. Although only the left side track failed, the right side would have soon enough.

This repair was fairly simple. First, toggle the circuit breaker off and turn off the water supply under the sink. Remove gray plastic covers to expose and remove Phillips head screws on each side of inner door frame then remove plastic kick plate before sliding the dishwasher out roughly 20”. The insulation needs to be folded back (tab release back bottom corner) to expose the four rack fasteners on each side. A small socket bit (I used a slow speed hand drill) makes quick work of removing old tracks but make sure one hand is inside on the track to catch what’s left of it. Replace both tracks (the second will fail) arrow pointing up using the fasteners you removed. Reset the insulation and make sure water, drain and electrical connectors are all in good order before sliding dishwasher back and fastening side frame screws to adjoining cabinets (tip: use painter’s tape or similar to keep screw head connected to screwdriver). Replace plastic caps and the kick plate. I had to replace the upper rack adjuster before reinstalling the upper rack on the new tracks. Check the bottom filter and reservoir for any plastic bits or ball bearings and remove them before turning power and water back on. Enjoy not having to hand wash dishes again. For me, about 40 minutes.

Replaced door latch

easy the sensor was on the right side, and easy to get to, I turn off the power, turned off the water, and pulled it out, the first thing I saw was the yellow wires and plug. took about 5 minutes, to replace it.

These wheel assembly that came on the lower rack of my dishwasher were junk! They started falling off within 6 months. I put them back on to the point that the pin in the center of the wheels would no long stay in place, thus the frustrating situation of the wheels falling off often.

Assembly was easy peasy!

My husband did the repair. It was very easy. He basically just popped off the old wheels and popped on the new ones.

Ordered a new pump (after a online diagnosis). Followed the instruction video on the website...also took the time to replace the discharge hose due to residue buildup...tested dishwasher (one cycle). Slide dishwasher back into opening....DONE. Works perfectly. THANKS

Pulled out dishwasher, removed 4 bolts holding the track to the dishwasher, replaced track and installed the 4 bolts. Pushed back the dishwasher and works like new. The new tracks are riveted instead of spot weld and will last longer.

In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.

This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.

pulled the dishwasher out (took the most time-1 hour) and 30 min. to install new door balance kit and springs. Replace both sides while the unit was out.

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

removed and installed cords with screw driver

Unscrewed mounting screws, pulled dishwasher out halfway, replaced arms, 4 screws each side .....very simple 30 min tops. Parts perfect and quick delivery!

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.