MAH20PSAWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I watched the provided video that EXCELLENTLY showed the replacement of the part. Then I was able to complete the task with no trouble at all

The whole thing is on YouTube beating out bearings was the only difficult part

after getting the washer apart and notice that the inner andd outer bearing were bad, I had to beat out the bearing because they were rusted in. after getting the bearings out the washer went together quite easily. It runs like new again.

remove door phillips remove front push down and pry out remove soap tray phillips remove two nut screws to lift up topy open tie or support top up remove bad contactor phillips normaly open check with continunity tester replace and reverse procedure

Had to remove the door, the face of the washer, and two face pieces between the washer and the stacked drier. I then removed and replaced the bellow. The installation of the new bellow was difficult, the first time. Getting the silicone part onto the tub is tricky as is re-installing the cable and spring. I must have not gotten the cable properly seated on the lower lip as it leaked and I hade to repeat the job the next day. The second time around was much easier. There is a learning curve, even for me, a retired electro mechanical tech. I thing someone who is not very handy would have trouble with it. This repair should be considered only by someone of intermediate or better skills.

diagnosed problem (hole in drainage pump). unplugged, took service panel off rear, removed hoses, twisted pump counter clockwise. dropped new pump in, made connections, and it was good as new.

The front seal had a long slit which leaks water during washing cycle. We followed the repair video every steps and got the old seal off really easy, the most difficult step is to tie the cable with the spring, it is too strong and can not be done with one person. All steps are the same as shown in the video. Thank you for providing the video and the part.

I followed the video for the installation. I did find that installing the spring was no way as easy as it looked in the video. Otherwise, OK.

Following the information on the web it simplified this repair a great deal. Disassembled the front of the machine, then pulled it out from the wall, removed the rear panel. Removed the belt & pulley and knocked the shaft loose from bearings. Removed the tub and using the brass bar drove the rear bearing out first then removed the seal and front bearing. The seal has to come out first so the plastic spacer can be removed, used the brass bar from the rear of machine to drive front bearing out. Cleaned up all parts and reassemblied. Replaced the motor isolators and drive belt with new since I was in the machine that far. Removed the soap & bleach tray and cleaned up all those parts. re-assembled and washed a load of rags to test machine. Sounded like a new machine. Sourced the new bearings from a bearing supplier they are 6200 Series bearings, Rear 6206-2RS; Front - 6207-2RS. Had I not made this repair I would have been buying a new washer & dryer so this job for a little over a hundred bucks saved me thousands! Thanks to PARTSELECT for all this information!!

Unscrewed old screws, removed old plastic pieces, and replaced

Followed the PartsSelect video for the seal replacement, which was step by step and spot on, I just had to add the bearing replacement part myself. Once it was dissembled I drove each bearing out by tapping them with the hammer and drift. My model had no bearing retainer ring. I did not remove the outer drum from the washer. Clean the aluminum hub real well, scrape it with a utility knife to remove corrosion, wipe with a solvent soaked rag, etc. I disagree with other methods ive seen while researching, like a wire brush in a drill, because you will remove aluminum material from the hub and the bearing wont fit as tightly as designed. tap in the rear bearing til fully seated. I did the rear first because gravity then held the spacer in place. Set the spacer in place, noting that one end is "flared" to a larger diameter, so it seats against the larger race of the front bearing. Align and start the front bearing in place. The spacer needs to align with the bearings so it bears against the inner races of the bearings. So to hold it in place I rolled up a piece of light cardstock, slid it thru the spacer and bearing, and as it "uncoiled" it aligned the spacer. Pretty well. I did have to tap the spacer a little with the drift after the bearings were in, but just a little. After that, back to the video for the seal and reassembly. Only other comment I have is to locate the bearings early. I ended up going to grainger for one and Napa for the other. And no one could seem to cross the "DU" part of the original NGK bearing. The DU means it just has seals on both sides. Pretty standard stuff. That could have been easier. Also hold off ordering extra parts. I have found PartsSelect is really quick getting stuff out. I ordered an inner drum because i heard from other research that that could cause the banging noise. My banging noise was from one bearing disinegrating and the balls breaking up inside the hub. Shipping the drum back cost 70. UPS wanted 160. So that could have gone better, but I didn't want to let the machine sit too long. Next time I'll let it sit a couple days.

I read the reviews from others fixing this same part, it didn't seem to difficult. It was not even hard at all. I installed the part and my washer does not leak at all. My Neptunes are old so I am very sure I will come back to buy parts here. I did install the hinges backwards at first, the didnt close so I had to take an extra five minutes to turn them around.

Removed tub replaced bearings. Put in new seal. Be aware drawing on instruction shows seal cup instaled from wrong side of seal. Other wise went well. Got bearings from McMaster Carr.

remove door with Phillips remove front panel nut driver remove soap tray lid and lift up top Phillips test small contactors for continuity and replace removed locking sprocket and replaced

Video repair instructions on the Parts Select site was right on and made the repair very easy. I took a little longer in my repair as I cleaned each piece I took off to make sure there was no dirt/lint/rust/mold remaining. The only difficult part was putting the spring back in place, this took a couple of tries. Other than that, relatively easy to replace and would recommend that anyone with any handyman skill to do this repair/replacement themselves.