MAH20PDCXW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Received 2 seals with seal kit and didn't know which seal went where and online it was stated in a video the kit included a "revised" seal but couldn't find anymore information than that. Installed what I thought was the seal to be installed on the inner seal. Did not have any information on the depth of the bearings installation on outer or inner bearing set depth. Tried to call help line but never got through. I think it is installed right? Guess I will wait and see how the drum holds up and hope the bearings and seal are installed correctly.

Beat on spline shaft until I gave up and trashed the washer. Bought new washer.

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

Everything went smoothly enough until I reached the tension spring issue...It is definitely a two person job (that part, al least) It may be helpful to add that to the video...otherwise, the repair went well as I followed the video completely

I removed top control panel and then the old power cord that been damaged by a small fire and the just attached the new power cord and control panel. Unblievably simple and I saved myself a lot of money. Where I live in a NYC suburb this type of simple repair could easily cost $100.

Disconnect power. Remove back panel. Use shop vac to remove water from drum. You can also remove one of the agitator fins from the drum (uses 2 TORX screws) to gain access to inner tub drain hole to remove additional water with shop vac and check for obstructions. Remove power wires from pump, noting position of each. Place towel near pump and disconnect input and output hoses. Rotate pump to disengage from slots in base, and remove. Installation is reverse.

Very easy.I used a screw driver to remove and install the new hinges. Three screws on each hinge. Door closes like new again.

My husband completed the repair by himself. He said that the "string trick" was helpful.

Removing the gasket was very easy. A couple hints on installing (1) attach the gasket to the drum first!! this is the trickiest part but once you get it on, attaching the cable and spring was fairly easy (just used two people and a pair of needle nose pliers). Once you get that on, "lube" up the other side with soap to make install easier.

With a torn boot on this front load washer, (nails in the pocket of my jeans) water leaked out on the floor with every wash. I knew it would cost a fortune to get fixed, so I decided to try it myself. I can take anything apart!
I heard of Parts Select.com from a friend and checked it out. With their help, I found the model and part and just ordered it. It was easy!
When the part arrived, I was obligated then to do something!
Since this is a stack unit, with the dryer on top, I thought I would take the dryer off and try the repair from the top. But there was no way that dryer was coming off! I tryed every screw and it wouldnt budge.
So I saw two screws in the front and started in on the washer below. I was careful to make notes on how I took this machine apart so I could put it back together!
I got down to the drum with a spring close guywire that holds the boot tight to the drum. It came off easily and I took the old torn boot off and put the new boot in place.
The tough part was getting that guywire and tight spring back on! The lip that holds the boot to the drum is very shallow and the book would not stay on all the way around and allow me to string the guy wire around in the little channel without coming off. FRUSTRATING!
I improvised and used duct tape to tape the boot to the drum to keep it in place so I could string that wire around. Man, did that take some doing!
I managed to get that wire around with the help of the duct tape, but the second big challenge was putting the spring on, as it was under alot of tension. It was tough to puuuuuullllll it together without pulling the boot out of the channel I had to duct tape it into!
By the grace of the Almighty, some prayer and some cussing (forgive me Lord), I got the spring into the rings on both ends of the guy wire. VICTORY!
Putting the boot front back in is easy, just put it into the holes that receive the projections under the front of the boot. No problem.
After all that, putting the washer all back together was a cinch!
And....
IT WORKS!!
I did it! No more leak! No expensive fix it job!
I did it myself, am prouder than heck!
Oh.....
No more Nails in the jean pockets!

Used the conversion kit to replace both parts.Note the supplied instructions say to test the install by running a spin cycle before you put the door and panels back on. However the unit will not initiate a spin cycle without the door lock engaged. Not just the light switch, the actual door lock mechanism. You have to reinstall the door, then test. This error in the instructions cost me about 30 minutes.

Removed back cover to gain access to the pump. Disconnect two wires to the pump. Remove hose clamps on inlet and outlet of pump and rotate pump to the left to remove. Installation is the reverse. I would also remove the large discharge hose from the bottom of the drum to make sure you don't have any debris at the inlet of the pump. My pump had a dime, and a bobby pin stuck in it. It was the bobby pin that over time penetrated the pump housing that caused the leak. I ordered the pump with the normal ground rate on a Thursday evening and had the pump it in hand around noon on Saturday. Couldn't ask for better service. The part was an exact factory replacment.

Ordered siphon cap according to FPS parts list. Wrong cap, but I don't care! Customer support was so helpful and willing to do everything to get me the correct cap, to include refunding my purchase price AND shipping before I even sent it back. They will be my first choice for parts in the future! My husband is a "fix it" guy, so I know that will mean a lot of purchases. I look forward to future business with this company!

removed door,Opened the front panel, opened the top and proped it out of the way. Pulled the boot from the front cover disconnected the drain, released the boot clamp and pulled the boot off. I cleaned the inside of washer and soap tray. cleaned debris from the drain hose. repaired a broken soap dish connection. changed supply hoses and new valves. Generally checked cleaned and overhauled the washer.

The first step to repairing this problem is to remove the hoses and back panel of the washer. Next detach both the hoses attached to the pump ( have some towels handy because their will be a lot of water pouring out of the pump). Before removing any screws on the pump, use a wrench to remove the bottom platform securing the pump inside of the washer. On the the Amana washer there should be about three bolts holding this small platform down. After unscrewing the bolts, unsnap the wire connected to the motor and remove the platform to get the entire pump out of the washer. The next step is to unscrew the screws on the bottom of the platform to release the base of the pump. The next step is to put the new pump on that same platform. FYI the new pump may not fit on the platform. To solve this problem, unscrew the motor/pump(the black thing) from the base holding the motor( the cream or white colored part). Do this step for the old and new motor/pump. Screw your new motor to the old base. Screw the base with the motor attached back on the platform. Connect the wire in the washer back to the motor. Screw the platform back in the washer and reconnect everything that was disconnected to remove the motor/pump. Finally put the back panel back on the washer and run a test cycle. The washer should now be able to drain.