MAH14PDAAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

First and foremost, disconnect the power before anything else, then remove the door, access panel, and front of the washer,I then detached the front of the rubber boot so I could remove the plastic panel that it attaches to, that exposes the springs, I then used a vice grip to remove the springs replacing them one at a time, I also replaced the struts in the rear of the machine which requires removing the rear panel, and I used a bottle jack to support the rear of the washer tub while I changed the struts, I changed the struts first which only helped a little, the springs made the job complete and the washer now completely wrings the clothes to a damp state that dries quickly.

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

The instructions from Richard of Austin, MN were instrumental in repairing my clothes washer. I am an electronics technician, and my control board failed just like Richard indicated. One thing Richard did not state is that resistor R11 and Q6 did not fail until the wax motor (solenoid) shorted out. If I had used the old wax motor, it would have caused the new parts I installed on the board to fail. I did find the wax motor cheaper on other companies web sites but without the instructions Richard provided, I would have had to spend nearly $300 on a new control board instead of repairing the original board. The two limit switches on the machine can be checked using an ohm-meter, so they only need to be replaced if they do not close when engaged which can be done manually. I found the resistor and Triac at Radio Shack online. I repaired the machine for about $40 total. Michael from Austin, TX

My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

removed the door &the top took the tightener off the bellow took old one out put new one on and clean all parts and put it back together works like a new one love it.

Watched the video, worked just like shown so as quick as you can take out 8 screws you can make the repair. Turned out it was the MCB but maybe this part (wax motor) Will save a main control board failure.

removed front panel. removed brakets holding top. lifted top hinged backward. Removed tension spring and cable that secures the seal to the drum. Pulled seal out. Put new seal back in. Secured with cable and spring. Reassembled top and front.

Replaced the belt and motor isolators. Watching your video made it very easy.

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

I follwoed the detailed instructions provided via the Part Select web page and instructional video. This information was very helpful. I printed the step by step paper instructions and had them available at the washer. They were very easy to understand. By doing this work myself I saved a $100.00 repair service call and installation cost and another $30.00 on parts. This resulted $130.00 ++ savings and 30 minutes of my time. Thanks for the great help and guidance!!

When I found the WAX motor would not cycle I applied 120VAC directly to the WAX motor and machine went into SPIN CYCLE as it should have. Stopped machine and ordered replacement Machine Control Board. Replaced the part and machine works perfectly.

diagnosed problem (hole in drainage pump). unplugged, took service panel off rear, removed hoses, twisted pump counter clockwise. dropped new pump in, made connections, and it was good as new.

The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.

Unplugged, removed back, removed hose, removed pump. Reversed the order and plugged it back in. Walla! Do'n wash again. Parts Select is the way to go.

I opened the back of the washer, put the isolator in the hole it belongs in. I then inserted the motor pivot pins into the holes, and installed the motor bolt. Installed and tensioned the belt, tightened the motor bolt, and installed the back cover.