MAH14PDAAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

removed one panel and front door to access under tub.leak solved!!!! thanks

removed door,Opened the front panel, opened the top and proped it out of the way. Pulled the boot from the front cover disconnected the drain, released the boot clamp and pulled the boot off. I cleaned the inside of washer and soap tray. cleaned debris from the drain hose. repaired a broken soap dish connection. changed supply hoses and new valves. Generally checked cleaned and overhauled the washer.

Despite the reviews by people who installed this part themselves, I knew that any type of repair was beyond my ability. I enlisted the assistance of a cousin who is a trained, professional appliance repairman. Despite not having instructions, with his experience things went well until he found he did not have the unique wrench that would have made life easier, but he was able to adapt and use the tools he had at hand. Unfortunatley, after more than twos hours attempting to install the wire around the boot, he realized that he could not do it alone, I had to help him and together, we were able to install the wire. It would have been helpful to have step by step instructions and a list of necessary (or at least useful) tools.

Download machine service manual from internet. This makes dismantling easy and prevents damage to component parts.

Dismantle as per manual and remove old bellow - easy.

Re-install new bellow on tub rim - EXTREMELY difficult. The spring that tensions the wire that holds the bellow in place is extremely powerful and in attempting to stretch it it often slips off the tub rim taking the bellow with it so you have to start all over again. It took me 2 hours to realise I would never be able to do this alone. With the help of a second pair of hands this was accomplished in 20 mins with some difficulty.
The rest of the installation and re-assembly was done without difficulty.

Basic disassembly as described earlier.Some tips I found helpfull. Use vice grip pliers on spring.it will keep a grip on the spring hook and you can exert more force to pull the spring.Th bellows was very sticky and hard to slip into place. I put a litle silicone lube ( stuff you use for pool pump gaskets )on the bellows. It made it slip into place easly.

Off with the door. Off with the front panel. Lift the top and you are looking at the boot. Remove the boot retaining wire . Remove the boot and reverse the procedure. It's a snap.

Tilt washer onto door with back of washer on top for easier access.

Wow! Thanks to the customer info/hints already posted the repair went super smooth and was relatively easy to accomplish. $70.00 for an easily replaced part sure beats $1,000+ for a new washer. Super fast shipping reduced down-time significantly!!! From start to finish the job took less than 30 minutes. Thank you so much.

Removed the door and front panel with ease. Then came the spring and cable. People who say it was easy are not telling the whole story. Removing the spring was okay except for it flew across the room. Putting the new cable on with a pair of needlenose pliers did not work for me. I had to get a spring tool like you use on brakes on a car. Once I had the tool and secured the cable in place with a piece of wire I got the spring on. Everything except the spring took about 15 minutes.

Replaced wax motor. You must also replace R11 (3.9 Ohm carbon film resistor (1/4 watt), Q6 Triac (Mouser 526-NTE5656), replaced Jp 18 (jumper) with a fuse (Mouser 576-0251.500HAT1l. This job requires the use of a solder sucker in order to remove parts without lifting up cooper traces.I have had experience with many electronic projects,and could have done this one easier if I still had the proper tools.A solder sucker is cheap, and without it, you will damage the traces. I did, but used a continuity checker to verify I made solder contact with the traces. I have six of these stacked washer/dryers. All failed after about a year of use. I am in absolute disbelief regarding all the stories about how easy this repair is.

On-line instructions were found easily enough. And followed easily. Hard part was placing the cable and spring which secures bellow on drum. One instruction said "you cannot do this by yourself" (I couldn't see how help would have "helped") the other said "this was the hard part" of repair. I weight 115 lbs and it took me 1/2 hour to finally get the spring hooked through cable end it's a very STIFF spring! I only had a short pair of needle nose pliers - an 8-inch pair would have given me more leverage and shorten "hook-up" time.

1. ReMoved spring and cable from tub, 2. Remove bellow drain hose clamp at bottom of bellow, 3. Remove bellow from tub side and door frame, 4. Wet door frame with water and dish soap solution, 5. Press door frame side of bellow into slot. Align grooves, 6. slide tub side of bellow over tub edge, 7. Say a prayer to the good of your choice, 8. Reattach bellow cable with spring. This required use of double stands of 60lb braided fishing line to chinch most of the way and then use of a spring hook took in one hand and needle nose in the other. No less than 12 attempts. Be sure to have another pair of hands ready when doing and the whole job will take about 15 to 20 minutes.

Removed front panels, lifted top to open position, removed back cover, removed drive belt, drum pulley, removed rear bearing snap ring, removed seal clips, removed 3 baffels then the 3 mount bolts. Pulled out spinner support and the inner drum. Removed the rear bearing #6206LL with brass drift rod and heavy hammer (came out with little effort. The front bearing #6207LL I soaked with penatrating oil overnight (this bearing was making all the noise as after 11 years water finally got to it) The next morning I had little trouble removing it with the brass rod and hammer, taking my time to work my way around driving it out. After cleaning everything up, assembly was the reverse, carefully driving in the new bearings. The new lip seal was the most difficult getting started without going in crooked. Time spent was a good 8 hours (it would have been more if the outer drum was removed) and the cost of everything was $167.09. Thanks to Part Select, the spinner support assy came the very next day. The two bearings came from Bearing Supply & Depot Inc. The washer operates like new!! Very Quiet!!

Accessing the bearing housing was quite easy and the PartSelect videos were quite informative. Upon removing the lip seal the bearings obviously needed to be replaced. The bearings needed to be purchased from a local supplier and we used Grainger #6L028 (rear bearing) and #6L029 (front bearing). We needed to apply a generous amount of Liquid Wrench and used a long drive punch pin and a 3-jaw pilot bearing puller to remove the bearings. After removing the rear bearing we broked the puller on the front bearing, but were able to remove with the punch pin with the access created at the rear of the drum. Reinstalling the bearings was text book, we used a long bolt with large washers to pull the front and rear bearings together, with the spacer inserted between them.

remove door phillips remove front push down and pry out remove soap tray phillips remove two nut screws to lift up topy open tie or support top up remove bad contactor phillips normaly open check with continunity tester replace and reverse procedure