LSE7804ADE Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I disconnected both water hoses from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the panel that holds the water inlet valve. After disconnecting the two electrical connections from the valve and replacing it with the new unit, the job was done.

First removed the two lower screws from the front panel. I then unscrewed two screws holding the top(lid) of washing machine. I then lifted the lid and let it rest on its rear hinges. The syphon is removed by unscrewing four screws from the rear of the washer. I then cut the original clamp holding the syphon to the hose. New syphon was installed. Enclosed hose clamp was used to tighten around hose. Syphon was then then screwed back to the rear wall of the machine. Easy fix. Water leak solved.

Power cord out, of course.Popped off the front panel, swinging bottom outward. Wedge shaped protrusions on top of front panel work as a hinge until the bottom is swung out and the entire front lowered. Unscrewed the top--one screw in each front corner accessed from the front opening (removed panel). Panel behind control panel must be removed (5 hex head screws). Tilted front of top up revealing broken injector. Retaining screw for injector accessible from behind control panel loosened and broken injector assembly removed. New (easily assembled--snap together) injector slid into holding slot on one side and screwed down with previously removed hex screw. Reassemble in reverse.

The repair went better then I thought it would go.
the seals went on just fine

I observed that the top of the dryer was affixed by two screws at each front corner. With these removed the top of the dryer could be easily lifted and with the front support panel removed the drum, drive motor and idler pulley could be accessed. This allowed the installation of a new drum belt in a short period of time. Installing the belt from the front lower left hand side proved very difficult for me but with the top raised and coming in from the top it was accomplished in short order. Thank you, Wesley Harmon

I thought it was going to be next to impossible to find a replacement part for an older washer. So my first attempt was to try to epoxy the original part, but the epoxy didn't hold up to the stress. I began thinking about what I might need to make a replacement part which was possible but not very practical. Although I dreaded trying to find this part online, I was very surprised and elated to happen upon PartSelect! Oh, by the way, this washer belongs to my daughter and I nave tossed the paper I wrote the model number on, so the model number was entered as the part number, sorry. At any rate, the the part was reasonable priced, and shipping about standard, but I still saved a lot by doing it myself rather than having a repair person for something this simple. Partselect online lookup made it easy to find the model and drawings to help me find the correct part nomenclature. AND, the part was in stock! So I am pleased with how this venture worked out.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck

First I shut off the power at the breaker. I removed the two screws on top holding the front panel in place I removed the wires carfully marking so they would go back in the correct places. I removed the tub and then removed the old motor and switching the wires to the new one. Mounted the new motor, replaced the tub with the belt, attached the belt to the motor. connected the marked wires and put the front cover back in place with the two screws on top of machine. Turned the power back on and started it up it works perfect The motor only cost $119.00 and a little of my time much better than getting a new machine as it is a stack washer dryer.

Good.

Every two to three years, the blower wheel gets chewed out in the center where it attaches to the motor shaft. I have learned the sound of it starting to rattle so I know to order a new blower before the air stops moving altogether. Replacing it is very easy if you have tiny sockets or nut drivers and a pair of snap ring pliers.

When working on this dryer, be aware that the heater wires are always "hot", even when the dryer is not running. You are only likely to touch one at a time so the worst you will feel is 120 volts. The shock probably won't hurt you but you may cut yourself jerking your arm out of the dryer. Best to unplug the dryer or open the circuit breaker before sticking your arm in there!

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.