LSE1000T Maytag Dryer - Instructions

repairmen said to buy a new dryer! or replace the motor! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!

It was the spring washer that was rubbing against the metal that was causing the very loud noise. The fiber washer that is used on the shaft on both sides of the roller had worn though and allowed the metal-metal contact. The fiber washer wore out! The fiber washers are very cheap!!!! in comparison to a motor or new dryer!


The drum rollers that support the rotating drum eventually wear out the fiber washer.
UNPLUG THE DRYER, DISCONNECT THE VENT
Remove the two screws on the lower front of the dryer panel, probably after you have tilted the unit backward. Remove the front panel by tilting out the bottom as there are two clips at the top. AFTER DOCUMENTING the CONNECTIONS - Disconnect the wires from the switch which is mounted on the front panel.
Carefully put the dryer on its back - be careful of the dryer vent to avoid damaging your floor or dryer vent!
Carefully pull the dryer drum up out of the dryer - as this is done the belt which moves the drum will fall away from the drum. I suggest before you remove the drum to eyeball the way the belt is tensioned and wrapped around the motor driveshaft, guard and tensioner. This will be the most difficult part of reassembling the machine. Some visual understand, maybe even pictures will help you later to get it installed correctly back into proper position... and it is NOT intuitive!
Once the drum is removed, the rollers are accessible. Rotate each and find the squeaker!
I recommend you replace the fiber washer on both, even though only one may be squeaking at this point (the other will be close to being worn out as well!).
I will not document the replacement of these parts as the assembly seems well documented elsewhere. I suggest you remain using the spring washer if there - as the after factory replacements do not seem to provide spring washers.
I would also suggest replacing the dryer drum belt, it is worn, after this many years, and putting in a new one will keep the dryer running for many more years. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER - USE IT

repair was pretty easy, actually took more time removing the door and the front housing that actually changing out the rollers

Received parts within two days of order. thank you

Removed the front panel and top of dryer. Removed the drum front support and drum from dryer then removed the rear drum support.
Remove the old felt seal both front and back. Vacuumed and cleaned the interior of the dryer blowing out the heat coils and controls on the front panel. Removed and replaced the front guides and installed new rollers. Removing the old glue holding the felt required a heat gun and scraper. New felt was installed with the proper glue and clamped in place for 12 hours. Assemble the the dryer in reverse order.

After taking apart the machine (applianceaid.com has slideshows for most major appliances - very comforting and reassuring - highly recommended), I used a shop-vac to clean up all lint and dirt. After getting the retainer ring off the drum roller shaft (snap ring pliers highly recommended), I replaced the drum roller along with the glides which were completely worn through (rivet gun required). I reassembled the dryer to find that the drum wouldn't turn, so I placed another order for the other drum roller and replaced the belt too. Back in business.

I had to remove the door, raise top and remove the front panel. After removing the drum and belt it was easy to replace the tension idler and put it all back together.

Our dryer started making noise and we ignored it until it became a grinding sound, that's when I knew I had to fix it.

The grinding was the front assembly being worn through by the fact that the glides were gone (worn away) and we continued to use the dryer. I, subsequently, had to replace the front assembly (after trying duct tape and metal epoxy, which didn't work). As there were no glides on the replacement front assembly I didn't know to replace them. They had worn away completely and I didn't realize I needed them.

Well, the grinding started again (right away, acually)and I tore it apart again and that's when I realized that I needed the glides (one on each bottom side) so I got those and put them on. They are called "bearing kits" actually.

They come as a cork piece that goes underneath the "vinyl" piece with the tabs going into the slots and the vinyl piece being riveted into the assembly from the underside of the assembly. I think that, so, that when the drum starts rubbing on something it will hit the rivets instead of the assembly and only damage the rivets. That way you know you need them when you hear a grinding sound and I theorize that will get your attention enough to make you want to replce them. The rivets being put in top down looks right though so "whatever" I suppose.

I also had to take them to work to ask an engineer if the cork gets glued to the vinyl as I saw on one post and he agreed as the cork is porous and would be capable of being greased and retaining the grease, He was wrong of course as so many engineers are today. I think that it is rather obvious that you just slip the tabs into the slots as you're common sense brain tells you to do.

The wife's happy and
I'm superman once again.

The repair was easy. New felt fit after the tabs were bent out some. Then just tape tabs back into place. Drum turns fine now, but ran it too long with tight drum. Motor is toast.

Took the dryer front panel off, loosened the drum, but not all the way out. Removed and checked the old rollers and shafts. Then put all the new shafts and rollers in. Put the drum back in place and front panel. Now it drys without a sound and this is a 25+ year old dryer.

Just took it apart and put new one in.

I simply removed the retaining clip and old bearing and re-installed the new drum roller, washers and retaining clip. Fairly simple really.

A noise in the dryer cabinet started as a chirp, then slowly progressed into a constant squealing noise. After reading reviews on this site, I decided to go ahead and order the roller shafts and drum roller support kits for both sides. The cabinet was relatively simple to disassemble. I removed the door and the front panel, then lifted the top panel to expose the drum. After releasing the tension on the idler pulley I removed the belt and the drum from the cabinet. Once inside, I examined all moving parts and determined that, although the support rollers were worn, they were not the source of the noise, it was the idler roller itself. I order the additional parts that day, and had them the next afternoon. Once back inside the dryer cabinet, the removal and replacement of the idler pulley and assocaited bracket/shaft took less than five minutes. I went ahead and replaced the support rollers as well since I already had them delivered, and that took a total of about 15 minutes. The support rollers are held on the shatfs by c-clips, and having the special pliers built for removing those clips was a big help and time saver. All total this job can be competed by someone with moderate mechanical knowledge and basic tools. It did take some time and patience to get the drum and belt re-installed and routed around the correct route, including the motor polley and new idler pulley. Total time was over one hour, due more so to the time spent cleaing the lint out of the cabinet than actual part replacement.

Followed the instructions per the video on this site. Only part that was a different was removing the front panel. Need to be sure to remove the backet that hold the top on as well.

I had the dryer repaired for the same thing by a "professional" 3 years ago. When it started making the same noise again, my son was here and said he thought he could fix it. We ordered the drum support roller kit, which was what was replaced before. After my son took it apart he decided we should also order the roller shaft as it was worn. He also realized the "professional" had installed the wrong drum support roller kit and installed the rollers backwards, which might have something to do with the shaft also wearing. It's working fine now.

I was amazed at how quickly my order came - using normal shipping through FedEx - the video was especially helpful. I saw there an easier way to get to the problem than I had used in the past. The front of the dryer bin was very accessible - removing just 4 screws. One thing I did different from the video - was that I only moved the belt into the groove at the back of the drum, so I left it inside the dryer shell - and only moved it out far enough to replace the wheels. This way I didn't have to reposition the belt on its pulleys. Our Maytag dryer was purchased in 1983 - and with the parts from PARTSELECT we expect to use it for a long time still.

used the drum support roller kit an easy fix to a noisy problem