LHC4900W1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

pulled leads off old wigwag solenoid, removed set screw and sprayed shaft w/wd40 then tapped it off shaft w/small hammer and large screwdriver. put new wigwag solenoid onto shaft then tapped it down into place and tapped it to rotate to expose set screw hole. reattached set screw, reattached leads to solenoid, checked looseness/freeness of cam arms and it worked

I own a small, local handyman service as a Father/Son team. This repair is PERFECT for an apprentice to do as a confidence biulder. He learned the safe way to service a machine with garanteed success. This is a job anyone with basic knowledge can easily do with a little on-line homework on their machine. -Jim & Tom W.-

This was a thirty year old Kenmore washer. I removed the control frame, and then removed the two nuts holding the water inlet valve. The valve itself was easy, two water lines and one fill line. Reassembly was problematic as this valve was not exactly the same, I just tied off the valve to the water lines so it would not move.
Of course what took the most time was a run to Home Depot as the hot and cold water hoses were old and I replaced them with new.

Followed the instructions on the Part Select video which were very clear. I removed control module from top of washer, pulled the washing machine outer housing forward slightly and disengaged the rear closure panel slightly. I disconnected the electrical harness and then I was then able to remove the existing inlet valve. The new valve was then installed and the precess reversed to complete the installation.

Piece of cake!! (The water comes pouring into the machine now)

My son did the repair. Thank God for Sons who know how to repair things. Worst thing was figuring out how to get the back off, top where dials are had to come off too. the rest was easy according to him..

First - I saw the picture of the part on your site. It made all the difference.
Then, I turned off the water supply, unplugged the washer, removed the screws holding the backing plate on the washing machine to expose the valve.
After that, it was as easy as removing two mounting screws, disconnecting the solenoids (just two connections), pulling out the old valve and replacing it with the new.
Pretty simple and a lot less pricey when you can wait a few days for a part to come in the mail.

I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.

Had no problem in disassembling the unit to get to the water inlet valve area. Very little problem installling the inlet valve but had somewhat of a difficult time getting the housing reassembled. There is a good flow of both hot and cold water which has cut down on the fill up time and washing time. Glad it is still working after 15 years. Instructions on the internet were extremely helpful. The delivery time of part was amazingly fast.

First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the inlet water faucets. I prepared my tools, spead a drop cloth, and had ready a towel and small bucket to catch water from the hoses.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.

I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.

followed the video i found on Parts Select. Most difficult part was getting the frame back on correctly. Everything else was a breeze. Works great now.

I watched the video provided and followed the same steps in taking the washer cabinet off. The valve was very easy to replace and I took the opportunity to really clean and inspect everything. A little tricky to get back together but not bad. My 25 year old kenmore is working like a charm.

I followed the instructional video that referenced the water inlet valve. The steps I followed were identical to the video I watched. That was extremely helpful. The hardest part was removing the terminal wires that connected to the inlet valve, the rest was very easy. With the new valve installed the washer works exactly as it did before. This site is very helpful, thank you!

i removed all screws for back of washer and removed top washer controls. then removed the valves and replaced with new one. reinstalled back in reverse order.really easy job. you just have to pay attention how you took it apart and study how it works , thanks!

I notice a screetching sound started and as time went on the water that flowed out to fill water drum was not working properly, unplugged washing machine electrical cord from outlet. disconnected water hoses, removed screws from control panel, pulled out front cover off wachine machine to access water valve, removed by unscrewing 2 screws, placed bracket on new part(placed over valve and pushed bracket up to slide and align srew to tightenbracket), put everything back in reverse order, helpfull video on video web site for visual

Take top of washing machine off. Turn spikets off and remove hot and cold inlet hoses. Remove one screw holding part in place. Reach from front and take valve out. Unplug wiring harnesses. Reinstall the same way I took it off.