KGCD807XBL00 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

A crack in the porcelain caused the spark to not go in the proper direction, therefore the burner would not ignite. To have the job done by a professional would have cost $200.00 plus parts. Remove two phillips screws lift the burner out then remove the one phillips screw that held the electrode. Then with the new electrode in place reverse the previous steps.

Installed new igniter, but would still not light flame. Determined it was a design flaw. On our range, the 2 right hand burners have "lift-off tops" that are farther away vertically from the igniter than the smaller left hand burners. I placed asmall nut from a nut-bolt assembly on top of the igniter, and now the igniter sparks higher to the "lift-off top" and the flame ignites everytime. Without that added heigt, the igniter just sparks uselessly around the base of the burner. There should be a higher igniter designed for the higher distance between the igniter and that removable top. Good luck with your own modification.

My mother is a great cook that is always in a hurry ... and I know that she is not always pushing those plastic knobs DOWN before turning them. Frustrated with reordering these expensive plastic knobs,I decided to get smart. I reordered 6 knobs (this is the 3rd time in 2 years). These knobs are designed to break. I decided to reinforce the plastic that goes around the knob shafts. At first, I thought about using some rigid metal bird bands like on a parrot. I second thought that this would be too difficult to find the perfect size to fit the outside diameter of the knob, so I decided to buy slightly smaller diameter, tightly coiled, sturdy, steel springs to fit around the plastic that fits onto the shafts. I manipulated each spring to become slightly larger to fit over the plastic by twisting the spring in the direction of uncoiling it. Not permanently unbending it, but just enough to make it grow in diameter to fit around the outside. I clipped the excess wire from the spring with wire cutters and reinforcerd everything with a coat of good strong epoxy . It seems that the metal spring and epoxy bonded to the knob became SOLID AS A ROCK. I figured, if the plastic can't split from the D- SHAPED shaft, then we have a knob that is as good as if it were made out of metal.

bought new ones and pushed them onto D shaped posts total time 90 seconds they may break again in 10 years but I am to lazy to reinforce them

Simply took off the original knob and replaced it with the new one.

Pushed the knob down on the spindle. Second order in three years.

I removed the burner by unscrewing 2 torx head screws, disconnected wire from electrode, removed screw holding electrode, inserted new electrode,connected wire, installed burner and fired it up.

Ordered online Tuesday, delivery by FedEx on Wednesday. Removed the old "popped" in the new and it worked right away. It was that simple. Thanks so much.

Pulled off the old knobs, pushed the new ones on. Could not have been easier!

Simply unscrewed the old one and installed the new one and we have ignition!

The original knobs were poorly made and kept braking. After the third set, which were very expensive for some plastic knobs, I read this web page for help. Based on what I learned and what I read, I glued the metal sleeve in the knob shaft with some super glue. I then wrapped the shaft with copper wire and spread some industrial glue over the copper wrapping, which looked like a spring around the shaft. I have had no problems in the last month. I hope it keeps up.

After determining it would not be possible to replace the electrode only (rusted/corroded connection), ordered burner head with electrode. Part came in approx. 24 hours. Actual repair involved removing two screws (star-shaped head),disconnecting electrical clip, removing part, connecting electrical clip to new head, reinstalling two screws. Works great now!!

I ordered an entire new set even though I only needed 2...removed all of the old ones, threw away the broken ones and installed the entire set.

Bought The burner with the electrode already installed. The only way to go, since the screws will not come out without breaking. Also purchased two torx screws as thay also broke. A bad design by the manafactor.Had to drill and tap out for new torx screws to fit into the gas houseing. PartSelect had all the parts I needed. Dan

Removed the burner & igniter as a unit. Screws holding burner down were very tight. One came out with effort, the other one the head broke off. Tried heat but to no avail. The screw holding the igniter had to be drilled out. Fortunatly I work in a machine shop so I was able to remove the screw, but the hole was then too large for the replacement screw. I wound aluminum foil around a toothpick to form a bushing in the hole so the screw could grab. Same principle as those plastic anchors for plaster or drywall. Bought stainless screws, but did not even try to get the broken screw out of the cooktop. The one screw holds it in place just fine. Wife is very happy.