KFCS22EVMS8 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

Must remove all shelves, pantry drawer , bins above pantry drawer.
Once everything is out of the way grasp the old, broken end end and pull directly straight up, if the refrigerator is a little older it may take a very strong pull. Needless to say this model is the newer model with no screws holding the end cap in place.
Once the old piece is out just located the three pins position the new piece over these pins and press down should clip right into place.
Very easy after old piece is removed.
Take a picture of the bins and drawers before you start so you have a reference when returning those pieces back.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Watched numerous U tube videos to prepare ourselves as well as instructions from other posters. Tried to pay attention on how we disassembled thing with limited success. Installing the new end caps proved to be easier that we expected since they weren’t screwed in but just snapped in. We think that’s because it’s a newer model that what we saw on U tube.

Ez job. Perfect fit.

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

There have been two problems with closing the left door.

First, the flap did not engage with the stop at the top of the cabinet and so the door did not close properly. Fixed this by adding a shim to the cabinet stop to lower it by about 3/16 of an inch.

The second problem was that the left door flapper had somehow gotten loose from its lower plastic clip. The solution to this was simply to remove the single screw in the flapper in the center where the electrical connector is, then re-attach the flapper with both clips properly engaged, and replace the screw to hold things fast..

No new parts were needed.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

I used “ Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA” instructions.

Without it, I may still be struggling to remove it. These are his notes summarized.

Remove both humidifier drawers
Remove the glass shelf
Remove the deli drawer and lid

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide the front of the end cap up and out.

THE PLASTIC TAB IS THE KEY!! ---^

To install the new end cap, reverse this process.

The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid.
Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight.

Huge thanks to Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA!!!

Remove the 2 screws that secure the flipper seal to the door. Slide the entire flipper seal up approximately 3/8ths of an inch. Disconnect wire connection. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Be sure flipper seal is pushed down enough to align screw holes before trying to reinstall the 2 screws.