JED8430ADB Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I at first tried to put it on the stem but it would not go on and stay. I went to this website and read several instructions and realized i had to remove more of the old know. I took out the inside part but still no go. I them took out the outer sleeve and was able to install and works great. Don't be afraid to keep taking the old parts out until you are down to just the post. Wife is very happy now. Thanks

Isolated circuit by disconnecting cooktop breaker.
Disconnected blower duct, raised cooktop above the countertop to access screws holding the glass surface.
Blocked in place--no need to completely remove cooktop.
Removed screws around top of pan with 1/4-inch nut driver--only need to remove any screws close to top of pan and glass surface.
Lifted off glass surface.
Dual burner switch bracket needs to be removed to access switch and to disconnect wire harness connections.
Note there was one screw holding bottom of bracket which was hidden by the wire harness.
I was concerned with connections from other reviews; however, in my case, the switch and connections were identical to the original--no problem.
Reinstalled bracket and glass cooktop--need to remember flange location (inside versus outside) to assure easy alignment of screws. Drop cooktop back into countertop and reconnect blower duct.
Powered back up and dual burner now fully functional.

Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.

Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.

Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!

Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!

Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.

If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.

Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!

Such a simple fix and you'll save hundreds.

Followed the first persons instructions and they worked perfectly including using the jumper wire.

I had an electrician do it. The instructions were horrible. He followed the instructions from your web site. The cooktop was not on an island so he could not remove all the screws to release the top so he worked with the top propped up. When he finally got the connections on, the small burner would not work only the large outer burner is working. He went on the computer to see if he could get more information but was unable to find any information.

Read the other folks descriptions of how they pulled out the leftover parts with needle nose pliers after they figured that the new knob would not fit with those other parts still on the range top. Took the leap of faith, pulled the parts out until I got to the D knob and slid the new part right on.

I merely lifted the downdraft cover and inserted the new screen as
directed. THANK YOU FOR YOUR PROMPT RESPONSE TO MY ORDER.

Removed glass top from stove by taking out hex screws which secured glass top to stove frame. There are two phillips head screws inside the exhaust as well. Removed two phillips head screws which hold the burner switch in place. With a sharpie pen I marked the color coded wires on the faulty switch. Removed wires from the faulty switch. Replaced new switch using the old switch as a guide to insure that wires were connected properly. Secured new switch and glass burner top reversing above procedure. Problem solved. Note: The white dot on the control knob did not line up properly with the off position. Black out white dot and make a new one in the proper spot on the knob.

Trial and error and reading and rereading the instructions.The use of the jumper wire was not detailed enough. Caller a repair man.

Raised the unit and blocked it with 2 boards. TURN OFF THE POWER IF YOU WANT TO COMPLETE THIS REPAIR. Removed the philip head screws for removal of glass top. Remove the corner screws on switch end. Remove screws holding the switch. Remove screws holing the bracket for all switches. Lift and roll gently to get at wiring. Follow the directions for moving wires from old switch to new switch. MOVING WIRES IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. Reverse your procedure to put back together and when finished remember to turn on the power.

My cook top has the red wire piggybacked along all the cook top switches. It was easy enough to reroute the red wire coming from the dual surface burner to pin 4 i believe on the new switch. Follow the previous thread and look at the instruction sheet online for this switch

IMPORTANT WIRE CONNECTIONS: The manufacturer instructions describing where each wire connects is woefully incomplete. There are 6 or 7 wires to connect and only 2 are explained in the instructions. I took several photos of the original switch showing where each of the wires was connected before disconnecting and installing the new switch. If I hadn't taken the photos I would have been completely lost on where each wire connected.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.