JED8430ADB Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed old knob by pulling straight up. The shaft the knob fits on is D shaped. Simple align knob with D on shaft and push down. Problem solved.

Thanks to the highest rated user comment and following his instructions the switch exchange was easy. The supplied instructions were of little to no help and confusing. The hardest part was getting to the two side top Phillips screws because the granite counter top was in the way necessitating raising the stove till the screw heads were exposed. Once raised the front cover was easily removed after undoing six screws. The cook top did not need to be removed. Either of the supplied wires would work and only one of the two was needed. The replacement switch performed far better than the original.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

Knocked breaker removed stove top from iland removed a dozen screws replaced switch put screws back in installed top back in iland put breaker back in worked purfect.

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch

This repair was extremely easy. I was able to lift off the broken fan knob with some pliers. The new knob easily fit and the new knob works like a dream!

We lifted the glass top, uninstalled the old burner and installed the new burner in it's place. It worked right away - and is still working. No other tricks the new burner was a perfect fit.

Repair was simple thanks to feedback from this site.

the filter fit because the scale in the photo allowed me to choose which one to buy!

The old grease filter was removed and the entire downdraft was cleaned. The new filter was slipped in. It is so nice to have the old one out. I am so appreciative of finding this part. :-)

The single burner switches were exactly the same as the old switches, and only took 10-15 minutes to replace two of them, including the time to remove the twelve sheet metal screws holding the glass top in place. The dual burner switch, however, was a totally different switch, and none of the wire colors matched any of the instructions. One set of instructions said there was no need to separate the paired red wires, while the instructions with the switch said they must be separated...ignoring the color code, and going by terminal numbers only, the first set of instructions led to the point of separating the paired red wires and attaching a female connector (which was not included in the package)to the red wire from the burner assembly and connecting that wire to the #2 terminal on the new switch. When the remaing red wire was attached to P2, there was barely enough slack in the wire to install the switch in it's proper orientation. All of this required numerous trips to the circuit breaker panel to test the connection. One of the jumper wires had a female connector which didn't fit any of the terminals on the burners or the switch. The instructions with the switch could very well confuse even a licensed electrician, as none of the burner connections are labeled.

1. remove corlan cover from base of unit 2. study original wire pattern of old burner and switch; write down pattern on paper 3 gently remove wires with needle nose pliers.4 replace with new burner and switch with color coded wire pattern copying the original wiring 5 reinstall corlan cover on base. remember to shutdown cooktop from either circuit breaker or fuse in order not to electrocute yourself while working remember wires are live until shut down from main source of power

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.

This Jennifer-Air cooktop has a black Schott Ceran surface. I unplugged the unit and disconnected the vent duct then removed the unit from the cabinet and shifted it 90 degrees to gain access to 10 screws that hold surface to body. Connections for replacement burner are slightly different than the original. I photographed wiring/connectors them removed the old burner. I removed mounting clips from old burner and installed them on the replacement (required two small tapping holes in aluminum case of replacement burner element). Installed new element and attached connectors (wires). No joy, outside element still did not heat - placed a dual element switch on order (have not received it yet). To be continued.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.