JE1860WB002 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Replaced with new guide. Fits well and works properly.

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

I verified I had 120 volts going into transformer when the microwave was supposed to be running. The capacitor and HV diode both tested good. Be sure to discharge the capacitor before working in this area. This isolated trouble to either the transformer or magnetron. The windings of the transformer measured good. So ordered a magnetron. It was very easy to swap. There were 4 screws and one connector. This fixed our microwave.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

Used a Motor cycle Jack to remove both unites combined. Removed side panels exposing internal working parts. Removed nonworking Magnetron and replaced it with new Magnetron. The process was completed in about 1 hour.

It was so easy to order a new glass plate ! Love this web site,

I want to preface this review by stating that I do some DIY from YouTube, but have no experience in electronic repair. The microwave is over the stove with the extendavent. First I unplugged the microwave, removed the vent and started to unscrew the microwave from the mount. I used a power drill to speed things up. I was able to remove the microwave on my own. I unscrewed the lid on the microwave and took the lid off and there is the magnetron. I opened up needle nose pliers to have each end touch the terminals of the capacitor (holds the power, Dangerous). I made sure to keep my hands on the rubber handles and avoid touching the metal part of the pliers. I used the pliers to remove the plug of the capacitor to the magnetron as well. The magnetron has 4 screws (2 top, 2 bottom). There is a magnet that can hold the screws to keep from falling but I’d still recommend a screwdriver with a magnet on the end. The magnetron has another set of wires connected by a metal bracket like a holder, not really connecting any wiring to the magnetron itself. I had to unscrew 1 screw to removed that. Adding everything back on was easy, same steps back. I plugged in the microwave and tested a cup of water before I mounted it back above the stove. Voila! I did need my wife’s help to hold the microwave on the hinge while screwing into the mount. It doesn’t take a lot of muscle for the help. $85 for the part and ~40 mins to fix a $400 microwave!

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.