JDB2100AWS Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the main plastic bolt with a pliers and then just used a screwgun with a star tip for all the screws.
I am a 43 year old woman with no experience and I was able to figure it out. The machine cleans much better now.

I removed the inside door panel, unplugged the old assembly and replaced with the new. The only caveat is that I THOUGHT the unit came WITH a new plastic handle, and it did not. It was very difficult to remove the handle from the old unit, and to install it in the new unit. The description was not adequate. I had read other blogs and they warned of the same missing handle, and I thought I had ordered correctly. The repair is fine, but the old handle is cracked, so I dont know how long it will last.

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!

remomed old adjuster and attached the new one to the housing and it was done it was very simple

I had to remove rack, remove old assembly and replace with new part. The manufacturer has improved the replacement part, which leads me to believe I am not alone. I used a nut driver/ allen wrech to remove broken part and took about 10-15 mins to repair. Part arrived very fast, great service!

1. remove inside door panel
2. verified the part needed using partselect web site (entire latch assembly).
3. removed connecting wire sockets and replaced part and door (simple process).

The door wouldn't close and it thought it the sensor was constantly open so it would turn on even if the door was wide open. Took the 10 or so torx screws off and removed the cover. Lifted the old assembly out and had to use pliers to get the wires detached from the door sensors. Attached the sensors to the new assembly, replaced the cover and screws and that was it. very easy fix.

Docking station just pops out, you grab the right side and pop it off. Replace by placing the left side in place and then push the right side until it snaps in place. VERY easy.

The gaskets were worn out and that was allowing a lot of water to escape, not enough pressure to clean the dishes.

Replaced with new basket

The old docking station seals were getting very soft. To put a band aid on the wound until the new docking station got here I put a sleve on the washer bar feeder tube. This made an improvement. The docking station was removed using a screw driver to unsnap the station. Then all I had to do was snap the new one in. Be care ful not to pull on the piece the docking station is snapped on to. There are metal clips behind there that hold that water delivery tube on to the back of the dishwasher. Those clips are twisted on and can be striped off easily by pulling strait towards you. If that happens you must secure the clips using self tapping screws and a water proof sealent.

Pull dishwasher about 1/2 out of cabinet. Remembered to turn off power just in time. Removed electrical leads. Hand removed nuts retaining the heating element. Installed new element - hand tightened nuts.

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

This site has a great video on how to do this. Just follow that.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

Dishwasher is in our summer cabin in Colorado so everything has to be drained for the winter. Not really sure whether this leak was freeze caused or that the valve was just old. Couldn't find a crack when I got the old one apart; might have been just an O ring needed. Anyway, just follow the video provided by this site for replacement of the valve; really easy. Biggest hassle for us was getting the dishwasher out (and back in) as it was wrapped in insulation which made the fit really tight. Thought I had everything I needed when I started but didn't have teflon tape which is needed for the brass fitting connecting the water supply to the valve (fitting is in your old valve and will be reused with the new one).