HTS22GBPC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not making it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.

After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part.
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. Locate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!

First I removed the rear cover, located at the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I cleaned out the dirt & dust on and around the compressor. The relay has a cover, that is secured with a spring loaded clip. To release the clip, push in with your fingers, while disengaging the end clip with a screwdriver. Once one side is off the other lifts off. Remove cove exposing the relay. There is one wire terminated, with a spade clip, remove it. With a strait blade screwdriver, pry the relay off the 2 post it slides on to. (Don't be surprised if it breaks into pieces, as they are sometimes brittle. ) Slide the new relay onto the 2 posts, replace the wire onto the right terminal, and replace the relay cover & clip. Replace the rear cover. Plug in and test.

unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy

No instructions came with new parts. Access to element was impossible until I accidentally discovered that the two styrofoam cushions at the ends of the coils were removable. Once removed, access to the heater and thermostat was very easy.

Unplug appliance, remove freezer shelf, cold air ducts, back of freezer, disconnect light, (My model does not have ice maker. This may also need to be disconnected.)
1.Remove styrofoam cushions at end of coils
2.Locate element between bottom two coils
3.Disconnect the male/female connections
4.Remove support clip under center of element
5.Remove element
6.Replace new element in reverse

Connecting the thermostat wires was challenging because they were somewhat behind the coils.

1.With styrofoam removed, unclip thermostat from coil
2.Carefully cut wires (leave enough to connect new wires)
3.Connect new thermostat wires (color of wires matched on my fridge)
4.Clip new thermostat in place
5.Replace styrofoam
6.Button it all up

With these steps, this job would take maybe 30 minutes; somewhat longer if your model has an icemaker.

Hope this helps.

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

After I bought what I thought I needed for the repair. I asked a friend to come over and look at it. He changed the
the light socket and put the same light bulb in and it works great. I am returning the light switch but decided to keep the light bulb.

Getting on the internet was so easy. This was really very simple. Thank you for making what I thought would be a big ordeal into something very simple.

Paulette Johnson

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

I went in with the toolbox, and couldn't see the screws to loosen, so I tugged the gasket to see how it was attached. It just snapped down into a groove in the door. Pulled out the old one, snapped in the new one, and voila, it was done! Happy day, lucky me! Didn't even need my husband's help.

I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

Removed the broken slide (two screws) replaced with the new part

repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.