HDA3500N10CC Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions
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miss wheels
It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.
Parts Used:
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Martha from Fort Worth, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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The unit would not start.
First I turned off the breaker to the dishwasher. I then removed the bolts that held on the inner cover(note the two small bolts go on the bottom one on each side). I lifted the switch up and disconnected the wire clips from each side. I then put the new switch in place with the wires attached. Then replaced the cover and screwed it into place. Closed the door and flipped the breaker back on and turned the dish washer on and it started up. A very easy replaceable part.
Parts Used:
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Robert from Riverview, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Broken lower wheel ion lower dishwasher rack
Pieces just snapped together. Simple an quick. Part select was wonderful in assisting.
Parts Used:
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carole from Libertyville, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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One of the wheels and hangers went missing.
Check website, order part. Hardest part was determining which was the right part. Needed the axle--I call it the hanger. I had previously called and ordered, but only received the wheel with no way to attach it. Push the axle into the wheel. Push the axle onto the rack. Since it was new, it didn't slip right on, and had to push it hard. (However, when it snapped on, three of the other wheels and axles came off.) Had to put them back on as well. Much easier, as they were older and not as snug. Total time: Took longer to open the package than put it on.
Parts Used:
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Sally from Wauconda, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Hing arm broke
Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...
Parts Used:
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Peter from Davenport, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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dishwasher not draining
Repair was really easy just like the repair video, but you have to lay on the floor. Unfortunately, the problem wasn't the solenoid, but the pump/motor assembly. Be sure to check the solenoid operation before replacing (making sure it is cycling). It might be the pump/motor assembly. Good luck!
Parts Used:
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Eric from Summerville, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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not draning
Removed bottom panel unplugged wires removed two screws removed it then replaced it
Parts Used:
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William F from new castle, DE
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Fractured brass bezel on bottom of valve- Leaking
simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.
Parts Used:
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Kenneth R from Marcellus, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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existing gasket dry rotted
This repoair was needed due to diswasher leaking out of side door. I just moved in about 6 months ago and needed to use dishwasher. When it leaked i noticed it was in need of a gasket. I searched the internet and came accross "part select". Part showed up in less than 3 days and was a breeze to install. The original gasket came out just by pulling, cleaned up channel and installed new gasket.slid in real easy. I did take off inner door panel to inspect for any damage. none noted. Perfect fit first time. Dont get confused folks if the part has another name as some parts are interchangeable in the industry.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Oronogo, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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dishwasher stopped working
knew the cause of problem ordered parts prompt delivery 16 yr grandson did the repair with little or no assistance
Parts Used:
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robert j from elpaso, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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water dripping near front left of dishwasher
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paul from petaluma, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Serious water leak into basement from around a kitchen sink pipe.
Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.
The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.
Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.
Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.
That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.
The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.
Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.
I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.
The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.
Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.
Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.
That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.
The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.
Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.
I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.
Parts Used:
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William from Sterling, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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no water was being supplied during certain cycle
door gasket dried out due to not using the dishwasher very often and needed to be replaced. removed door, replaced gasket, and re-installed door.
Parts Used:
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Delia from Ocean, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Water does not Drain
After installing the part, ran the washer once more. The water still remains in the washer. Tried washing several times. The problem is still the same.
Parts Used:
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JAYANTI from KANSAS CITY, MO
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench set
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dishes not getting clean, top rack not washing
remove front lower cover, 2 philips screws, turn off water supply under kitchen sink to dish washer, turn off power to dish washer, remove water supply line to valve, remove power to valve, clip ons, remove two 5/16" screws holding valve on, turn valve gently to access clip holding washer supply hose, push clip up hose and hold hose while pulling valve off. re-install in reverse order, a flash light helps.
Parts Used:
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Nugent P from Garner, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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