GTW460AMJ1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Open up the top of the washer per instructions. Remove the old switch and wiring harness. Install the new wiring harness and switch. The instructions that were provided are very descriptive so the installation went flawlessly. The switch has been redesigned and looks to be more robust than the original. The washer now works like new.

Emptied the washer, took the back cover off, tipped it foward, unplugge the old pump, remove two mount bolts. The replaced the new pump. The new pump resolved the issue.

Being a woman I had to figure out tipping it in its front. I put it on a dollie and drop it down real easy.
Removed all water lines after water was shut off.
Removed bolts. Removed bolts on plate to the right to unplug old pump.
Plugged in new one and replaced all bolts, hoses and tipped her back up. Works like a charm and I saved $408 by doing it myself!!!!!

Replaced water pump. Washer now works as new.
Wife is now happy!

Unplugged washer and hoses. Removed 4 screws in back control panel and 4 screws holding control panel down. Drained capacitor and checked that. It was good. Pryed washer top off with screw driver. Used vice grips to remove old and install new spring rods, replacing them one at a time. While lid was off I cut a small diameter pool noodle in half and cut 4 half noodles the size of each side. I unclipped one side of the tub cap and ran an 11" zip tie through the hole in the middle of one side and back up and out where the tub skirt and cap meet, then tied the half noodle to the edge of the tub cap and snapped down cap. Then repeated with the other three sides. I did this so heavier clothes, if they got out of balance, would continue to spin. The noodles keeping the tub from moving too far out of balance. The rod springs helped with lighter loads but still shut down spinning with heavy clothes. The machine always handled heavy clothes for 7 years until the last month or so. If it breaks with the noodles, I'll get another new machine.

There's two nuts on the back of the washer holding the metal backplate. I used my 11-1 Klein screwdriver. Once you get the screws out lift the backplate slightly and pull the whole top assembly out of it's spot and lean it forward onto top of the washer.

Take pictures of where the wires go so you can remember for later.

Disconnect the two wires and remove the two screws holding the metal plate. Same size nuts driver as the other screws.

Remove the sensor by just wiggling it out.
Slide the intake assemby out of it's spot.
Slide the new one in.
Then just do everything you did in reverse.

Takes 10 minutes. Super easy.

Took 4 screws out of back of control panel. Tested old capacitor. Installed new one. Put back on tested spin cycle everything is doing great

Took the belt cover and then replaced the pump. Did a dry run and everything was fine.

Removed the center agitator to clean it - had black mold and pink soap scum buildup underneath that you couldn't see or clean without taking it apart. Removed the bolt with ease. Upon tightening the bolt back in place, the bolt sheared in half, leaving the lower half threaded in place and the head in the socket. Had to use a drill bit and drill out the lower half of the bolt completely. Ordered the replacement bolt and reassembled everything in less than 5 minutes. Replacement part was perfect - hopefully it lasts longer than the original bolt.

Once I determined it was the drain pump, (by taking off the drain hose and letting it empty by gravity, then running the spin cycle which worked ok) I ordered the part, got confirmation from PartSelect.com that it would fit my washer. I removed the old pump taking out the 6 screws needed to hold it and the cover in place and unplugged the electric connector. I installed the new pump from PartSelect.com using the same cover and 6 screws and electric connector. I reconnected the drain hose and the washer has worked perfectly since then!

any electrical device unplug the power cord. I followed the instructions the best I could understand them. but once the part was removed I took pics from my cell phone of how the wiring ran, and also what other connections I had to undo. all connections were made, connected the hot n cold hoses, plugged into the washer no beeps or sounds as before opened the hot n cold water valves, and the tub was being filled with water. could not turn on the washer, no lights or beeps... so I gave up I spent too much time on this machine and money too, hope to get an RMA for the Lid Switch assembly

Look it up on YouTube to see how to repair the problem. Unscrewed the necessary screws. Took apart the top, pop open the loader replace the bezel. Put everything back together again. Was simple.

The parts I ordered were made of junk plastic and did not match up with the the existing parts. The parts did not end up fixing the problem and I bought a new washer instead.

Waste of money

Replaced with new transmission platform. Unfortunately the seal is irreplaceable. Must have 1-5/16 inch wrench for tub nut (not 1-11/16).

Replaced with new water valve solenoid. Leak stopped. Yah!

Just follow the directions, it's easy. My biggest gripe is with Whirlpool. We moved into this house about a year ago; the dishwasher was new at that time. The house we moved from also had a similar Whirlpool dishwasher, less than a year old. Both had these roller assemblies break. The replacement parts are from Whirlpool, and of much better quality. I don't understand why they don't use the better parts when making the unit.