GTW460AMJ1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Easy fix. Take out the two screws on the backside of the control panel and remove control panel out of the way. You will need a long shaft nut driver or 1/4 inch socket extension to be able to get to the nuts, one on each side of the back of the control panel. The water inlet valve is right there in your face. Easy to remove and replace. Remember to save the small O-ring in the center of the top of the valve and reuse it. Oh, by-the-way, shut the water off first and unplug the washer. Replacement part was a perfect match.

Take cover off use socket driver to remove two hex head machine screws. There was a foam piece attached to the old part that i pealed off and attached to the new part. It’s there to prevent rattles. There is a tube that pulls out of the old part and a grommet inside that must be removed and placed in the new part. Connect the two electrical plugs and install the new part just like the old part came out.

looked up part not exactly easy. that was the hard part. it was delivered next day and just had to pop into place extremely easy instalation

I downloaded the repair manual on line and followed the instructions for running the diagnostics. This showed that the selector switches were faulty. I then replaced the selector switches following the instructions in the repair manual. Couldn't have been easier.

Lift the cover, undo too screws, Slide out broken part, slide in new part put in the screws and close the lid.A piece of cake.

Thank you for the super fast service on Christmas eve no less!

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.

1) Unplug washer
2) Remove water supply hoses
3) Remove drain hose
4) Tilt washer forward
5) Remove 4 bolts covering the motor assembly to access belt.
6) Remove old belt by turning it off the pullies.
7) The new belt needed to be stretched by attaching one end of the belt to one of the pullies using a zip tie. I did this by drilling a small hole in the larger pulley, large enough to allow the zip tie to pass through.
8) After tightening the zip tie to the belt, slowly turn the larger pulley to stretch the belt on to the smaller pulley.
9) Make sure belt is properly seated on both pullies.
10) Reinstall the cover.
11) Reattach drain hose and supply hoses.
12) Plug washer back in.

Put the parts in, turned washer on.....lid lock still blinks, will not operate. Suggest the control board that sends the signal to the solenoid lid lock switch is defective. Buying a new washer, scrapping this one.

Remove old pump install new one. Three bolts and an electrical connection

We changed the circuit board once, and the door latch mechanism twice because we ordered a faulty part. Then we had to hire a service man to program the circuit board, and to inform us that the door latch mechanism was faulty.

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

Unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, didn’t have to disconnect water lines, set the parts out on the counter as I went over the instructions a couple of times, followed the directions, plugged it back in, worked perfectly again.

Instructions were fairly good, line up holes and push a phillips head screwdriver thru auger then twist it off. Problem is you can only use a short screwdriver due to space limitations, and it is or at least for me was impossible to twist the auger off as directed, but after I lost my temper and gave the screwdriver a good thump (auger was already broke, what's the harm) with my left hand the auger came right off, putting the new one on is very simple.

I watched a video on a few times that PartSelect sent me about how to make the switch from the broken lock set to the new one. And it really went just as the video showed. So far things are working.

Follow the super simple, precise instructions and it is very easy. Only harder part was unclipping the front of the lid.