GT15B2F3EV Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

had to cut approximately 1/2 inch off. It was a bit to thick used the pliers to squeeze it to a thickness it would fit in the slots

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

1. Inserted the plastic bracket into the channels on the side of the front metal piece with the hole plugs facing outward.
2. Lined up the plastic piece with the plugs with the holes on the shelf door.
3. Slid the plastic piece (in its channel) towards the door and into the holes.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Tuned up the ends of the bracket with a needle-nosed pliers then installed new retainer clips into bracket. I then laid on floor and lined up two holes in door and bracket (one end at a time) and pushed retainer clips into door's existing holes. Door was open for less than 30 seconds. Bracket is now solid and holding. Note: Do not jam products in bottom or any shelf thus putting pressure on bracket. Find a new home for the product!!