GS2325GEKW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Refrigerator was not cold.

I had this problem before and it was the control vale in the back of the refrigerator. I ordered it and change that out in 5 minutes. That wasn’t the problem. I had the repairman come over and within 5 minutes he told me what the problem was. He showed me where the control board was. He then walked me through the removal process.

First remove the light cover on the Freezer & Refrigerator in front where the light button is located. Pull down on the front of the light cover. It pops out.

Second, in the front of the freezer & refrigerator temp control panel put your fingertips in front of the panel and pull down it’s hard to get the pins to release but the front pins will release, then pull down a little to allow the back hooks to release. (You can use a small common screwdriver if you can’t get it with your fingertips).

Next, once the panel is removed then disconnect the wiring harness. Then bring the panel to the counter, this is where you remove the circuit card and replace it. There are 4 hooks that hold the circuit board in place. Use a small common screwdriver to push the hooks away from the board. The new board comes as one piece. The board is perforated to allow you to snap the board. Directions come with the board and how to snap it. You will need to pay attention on how you removed the board. You will need to put the new board in the same way it came out.

Once the board is re-installed and lock into position reverse the process and install the control panel back into position.

Next is the programing of the board. Follow the directions that come with the control board and you will be back in business

This task took about 15 minutes to remove & replace and to program.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

pull open seal lift up release bottem catch push in to release top catch clean disk and installnew seal put back in the reverse of taking out dont take any thing else apart

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

The fridge door was easy. Just unscrew top and lift off hindge. The freezer door took longer. But I had the user guide which helped. We unhooked the power harness at the top of the door, and disconnected the water line at the bottom of the door.

Frankly, it wasn't that hard for me because I had my son-in-law do it!

remove the tray from the freezer. unsnap the front cover from the bin. remove the four screws holding the metal helix and grinder assembly to the bin. slide the metal helix and grinder assembly out. slide the new end cap onto the end of the helix. (this is the only tricky part and takes some patience. The stub end of the helix has to slide into the hole in the end cap. You can't bend the helix, just work the end cap around until it slides over the helix end stub). Reassemble the grinder and helix to the bin, snap the cover on and slide back into the freezer.

removed the old part and replaced with new. Part came very quickly....

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

very easy, with use of screwdriver and 1/4 in nut driver. just remember the way the blades go and get them back the same way. had it fixed in 15 mins.

1. Removed ice maker from frig.
2. Emptied all ice cubes.
3. Let it warm up to room temperature.
4. Removed front cover from bottom up (unsnapped).
5. Removed 4 screws.
6. Removed old helix cap.
7. Installed new helix cap.
8. Reverse of step 5 to step 1 above.

The ice to the door has not worked for the last 2 years. My wife complained about not having crushed ice to drink with. We looked at buying a new refrigerator. I went back online to look for the broken part again (I have looked in the past but never found the part). I stumbled on this website and found the part and it was only $4.00 and change. Only needed 10 minutes and my hands to snap the part in place. I do need a new ice bucket but it works for now and my wife is happy.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.