GS2325GEKW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched a Utube video

Followed the video exactly as shown from the website. I do suggest using a mirror or your phone to visualize the notch to press to drop the cover.

Took auger apart laid out sequence as removed parts replace the same way . Parts have to go back like they were removed.

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

Just plugged it in

There is a plastic flapper valve that is spring-loaded in the closed position that prevents ambient room air from entering the freezer compartment via the ice chute. The Ice Chute Seal is a simple flexible (rubber-like) disk that just slips over the circular flapper valve. With the freezer door open one can see the flapper valve down the ice chute and one can reach it easily from the outside of the freezer as well. The Ice Chute Seal has 3 notches that make it very easy to remove the old seal and replace it with the new seal. This can be done by feel. I removed the old seal by pushing the flapper valve open with one hand (from the inside of the freezer door) and could then peel off the seal surrounding the flapper valve with the other hand. Once the old seal was removed I slipped the new seal around the flapper valve. No tools required, no screws needed to be removed. The problem I had with frost/ice build-up was solved; there is no more ice/frost build-up inside the freezer near the top of the ice chute. The old seal LOOKED OK but was obviously a bit too stiff to seal the opening against the warm, moist, ambient room air. I was most happy to see that this solved the problem and that it was so easy to do (really less than a minute or two!).

Bought new cap.

Took longer to pull fridge out and push back than to replace bucket. Pull bucket and dispenser out . Carefully unsnap plastic front cover and access door from bucket. Loosen two hex screws that attach bucket to dispenser. Auger assembly comes loose. Just reinstall auger and screws then carefully snap front back on. Slide unit back in freezer.Push fridge back in place. Take a beer out of fridge. Drink it and pat yourself on the back!

Ridiculous how easy it was, REALLY!

Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?