GMAN4250F2WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

Remove front panel by pulling on both sides of it at top.

Loosen clamps on both ends. Tub end uses 5/16 socket on extension. Pump end uses plyers.

Replace hose and re install clamps.

I removed the front cover on washer I tied wrapped one side of the belt to to the back pulley and placed the belt on the the motor pulley then placed the belt installer on pulley below belt with gloves on I started rotating the pulley in the back and when it started getting s little tight I moved pulley back and forth then started turning in clockwise direction again and belt went right on.i cut the tie wrap after making sure belt was secured and evenly on then turned pulley to make sure belt was secured removed belt installer and replaced front cover.i am a 57 yr old woman and did this job by myself.so easy when you have the belt installer also.

Removed the softener despenser by pulling it straight up, then did the same with the agitator, except I had to turn it a little then pull straight up.

We pulled out the old parts and then we got the new parts and we put them in,

Removed agitator with rope idea. One quick jerk and it came off. Removed coupling. Replaced with new coupling. Reinstalled agitator. Works fine. Note: I could not see anything wrong with the old coupling. It looked brand new with no noticeable wear!! Thanks for your help in recommending the part that most likely would fix the problem.Tom

pulled up on agitator and it came off and replaced it with the new one

Remove two bracket screws. Removed hose. Put new hose in place using same bracket and screws. inserted end of hose into washer drain. Secured hose to cold water hose with two zip ties.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

The video on your site on the page for this belt was perfect. Really just using a tie wrap to hold the belt as you spin it to put in place was a very helpful idea. It was easy and less expensive than a new washer!

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

Repair was done with the help of step by step insructions available on utube, just enter model# and the repair you need to do. One problem I had was new tub seal{GE part] was a little smaller in diamater than the seal I removed And still leaked when I first ran washer So I took it back out and used a sealer [Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound from auto parts store] as recommended by one of the the repair techs on utube and it sealed it perfectly, just let it set op for about three hours and nice and dry now

I heard this is a tool you need to get that belt on with out slipping off. we thought we had the wrong size belt it as impossible at first to get the belt on. what a struggle

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.