GLWN2800D1WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

Pulled front panel of washing machine, removed hose, installed new hose, and wipped up water.Simple!!!

Watched the repair video on PartSelect website , repair was exactly as they showed on video , grab old agitator at base , give a quick pull and it popped right off , lined up tabs to coupler with new agitator and gave a sharp push down and new agitator snapped right on. Total repair time was approx 5 minutes .

Reach down and grab the base of the agitator with both hands and yank up with slightly more pressure on the left or right, whichever side you prefer. This will break loose the holding clamps/pull straight up. To re-install: align slots and push down until it snaps. Simple as that.

Pulled old knob off. Aligned new knob. Pushed on. Took less than 1 minute, no tools required.
Expensive for a knob.
But it fixed the problem better than switching another knob from the machine.

Surprisingly easy. I took the screws off, then pulled off the drain hose. I then inserted the new hose, and put back the screws. Amazing quick!

Unplugged...Removed back from washer...Using nut driver-cordless drill...Inspected hose-found leak....Removed hose with pliers & screw driver.....Than dried the hose...& than for temporary fix (for the wife to continue washing) used some Epoxy for rubber.....Than ordered new part. Received and reinstalled replacement. Thank you

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

The replacement of this tripe water valve was so easy. My tub kept filling with water even though the water should have shut of. First remove the two hoses from the valve. Second you remove the 3 screws from the steel shield behind the plastic upper control pan panel. Take the shield off. Remove the control panel and lay on the washer. Then take the filler hose to the tub off using pliers to remove the hose clamp. Then take the two screws out of the valve. Twist and remove the valve. That is the removal. Reverse all of these to put it back on and test out. This valve fixed my problem. Anyone can do this who has any basic knowledge of tools.

replaced broken straps all 4. washer not working ]. replaced lid switch with wire harness.replaced bad old belt.working fine now. my wife is very happy. thanks for your videos and how to do the job right.

I followed the Youtube instructions on replacing the valve. So easy.
Getting the wire clamp pushed back from the hose was the only part that wasn't easy but I got it done by being gentle and persistent moving and twisting the wire a little at a time.
Im a 67 yr old woman and was determined not to call in a appliance repair person after I saw how simple the installation could be. Parts Direct is awesome. Will use again in the future for repairs. I feel like I have super powers after doing this myself.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

I pushed a small screwdriver under the top lid and pulled the front out and lifted it out or the way. The rubber hose had two clamps holding it. One you loosen with a flat screwdriver and the other one you squeeze with pliers to remove hose.Then replace hose and put front back on. It's very simple.