GLD7768V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered drain pump kit (GE part # 325). When it came it looked different from the pictures in the manual and what was ordered. Thought I was going to have to retrofit pump. Looked at ordering a drain kit from another source, which I did. When that came it was exactly the same as the one I ordered from Part Select. I returned the other pump.
Looking at the parts diagram, I discovered the replacement pump (part # 325 ordered) was combined with part # 327 which is why it looked different. I went ahead with the replacement, pulling out the pump and the connecting tubing, part # 327. The replacement pump fit exactly in place, replacing the pump and tubing. I put the dishwashing machine back together and it works great.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. It must have had a food ball caught in the impeller, inhibiting flow. Next time I'll check all the parts for grease and food balls before ordering new parts..

changed the door gasket no tools,just pulled out the old,lined up the dot (printed on gasket)on the new and started at the top pushed in the new took five minute,the short bottom door seal required a phillips head screwdriver to remove the inside door screws(six screws) the two on the bottom are different they attach to the door hinge and are machine thread the other four are coarse thread.lifted off the panel slide off the old(pay attention to which way the curve goes) slide on the new replaced the panel put in the six screws.the job is done! the door will be tight to close but will be easier after a few uses.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

Slid it in. Very easy and the replacement part is built better than the original part.

Watched a YouTube video on disassembly, parts replacement, and reassembly.

Simply remove broken wheels and clip on replacements. No tools are necessary for this fix and the replacement was inexpensive and easy to install. The kit worked beautifully.

This was simple. I took the door apart with a portable screw driver. Then I detached the wires and unscrewed the old module and replaced it. I then put the door back together, loaded the dishwasher and it cleaned my dishes. Even for this `old dog' it was easy.

Simple, took five minutes, no tools, problem solved.

It was a very simple replacement. I took the old one out and rolled the new one in. It took less than 5 minutes!

The old wheels and attachment brackets were easily removed since they were always falling off. I ordered all new brackets and wheels, but it turns out I didn't need new wheels. If your original wheels are in good condition, they are the same size as the new ones and fit the new brackets. The new attachment brackets are built differently than the ones that came with the dishwasher, but (a good thing considering the originals only lasted 1 1/2 years). The new brackets and wheels snapped together and snapped into place on the dishwasher in minutes--no tools were needed. It took longer to cut the parts out of the packaging than to install them. The bottom rack now rolls out like it did when it was brand new. Definitely worth the few dollars in parts.

I placed the missing cap into the dispenser.

I removed the old gasket very easily as there wasn't even glue holding it in place. The new gasket just pressed right into a slot and makes a water tight seal.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Simple install- just roll it in. Fit perfect. Better design than OEM part. Perfect.

Followed the instructions that came with the my order