GI15NDXTS1 Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

Having read a few of the user reports like this one gave me the confidence to do this repair. The space was really tight, but one of the write ups suggested removing the frame and then replacing the motor on the frame. That was an excellent suggestion. The only difficulty I had was when I used the motor screws from the old motor to install the new motor. They were slightly longer and didn't tighten down all the way. So the first "test" resulted in still having a noisy fan motor because it was shaking around a bit. But, taking it back out and using the screws that came with the new motor did the trick. The refrigerator is now whisper quiet all the time. I also appreciated the conversion wiring harness in the kit that was simply plug and play for this new motor to my old refrigerator.

Bought new wire, strung it end to end and fastened it at each end.

Remove pump and hoses from bad bucket, removed bucket and install new bucket . To remove pump, remove screw holding pump and turn pump 1/4 turn. Be careful Putting new bucket back, can break hose if not careful. Good luck

Remove ice tray and guard over moter. Un plug the 3 plugs and pull the entire motor assembly out. Use a screw driver to gently pry motor out. Snap in the new motor(the wiring was on the wrong side and the power cord coloring backwards on the replacement motor, but I snapped it in with the colors criss crossed and it worked). Re plug in the 3 plugs. Re mount mounting assembly, tray and then guard. Had a little trouble getting the tray back in. There is a little flap in the back that goes inside the tray. Other than that, a pretty easy fix.

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

I replaced the thermometer first and it started working again. I was convinced that the reason that it continued to break every 6mos was because no one had ever replaced the fan. The difficult part was getting to it. After trying to get in from the front and from the back I finally figured out that I had to take the bottom off and tilt it on its side. I was then able to get out the pin in the condenser and move it to the side. I could then reach the screws that held in the fan. I then decided to put the fan on the motor and when I was tapping it on with a hammer the back cracked. I attempted to fix it by taking apart the old motor and salvaging the parts but that didn't work. I had to buy another $85 part and take the whole thing apart again. It was easier the second time because I knew which screws and pins I had to remove and how to get to them. I very, very carefully tapped the fan onto the motor and now it is working fine. I will let you know if it is still working at Easter. If it is I will have done a better job than the 7or 8 repairmen who have fixed it in the past

as told per compter

Removed to old motor by removing screws and disconnecting power source and replaced with the new motor and plugged back in power source

Using a 1/4" ratchet removed the old motor, a bit difficult due to small space to get your hand and ratchet in position. Before installing the new motor I used one of the screws to tap the the 3 holes in the new motor so it would be easier to start the screws attaching motor to mounting bracket. Attached cable. plugged in the fridge. Great to hear a quit running refrigerator again.

I pulled the back panel covering the fan and condenser off the refrigerator (just a few screws) and disconnected the fan which was a simple plug. The fan was held in place with three screws which I took out. I pulled out the old fan and replaced it with the new one, three screws to secure it in place and reconnect the fan plug. Then simply replace the back panel and plug the frig in. the fan silently started right up. Good as new and no service call! :)

fan motor housing had to be drilled through both sides of housing to attach to existing bracket. Possible damage to wiring inside the unit may disable condensor fan motor when motherboard is replaced. (Motherboard on order.)

My husband watched the video on the repair and followed it step by step...works like a charm! The repair shop wanted 299.55 to fix it - the part was 79.00....big savings by doing it ourselves.

Unplugged the refridgerator and pulled the rear cover. Had to take the fan blade off in order to get at the screws holding the existing motor in place. Removed the old fan. Pressing the new plastic fan onto the new motor shaft was a little more effort than expected, but I guess it won't come off. I have large hands so mounting the new unit was a little bit of a challenge getting the small screws started. Once the three screws were tightened all I had to do is plug the electrical connector in and replace the rear cover. I was happy that the existing electrical connector was the right one for the new motor too, and that I didn't have to use the provided wire harness. All in all the repair went pretty well.

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

The repair went just fine. Your instruction regarding using the wiring harness were clear. Most of all I am happy to not have to listen to a noisy motor all night.