FWT449GFS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The door catch on the washer broke, and I had to epoxy the broken catch to finish my laundry. I looked for the part online, and PartSelect not only had the part but had a photo of it as well. I was very impressed with how quickly the part arrived, and within 15 minutes the repair was complete. Thanks for having the photos and getting the part to us so quickly.

no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

The hardest part was moving the stacked washer/dryer from the alcove. I found the instruction videos from this site accurate and helpful.

After disconnecting the water/gas/electrical connections:
Shock Absorbers:
-Remove front service panel
-Squeeze lock tab on shock absorber pins and gently tap out of sockets
(inserting a small screw driver kept tab depressed when starting)
(lower left is pretty easy due to clear access)
(right side is more difficult)
-Optional: remove drain boot on lower right to improve access
(squeeze spring clamp and wiggle off of connection then work boot off of nipple)
(I did this step but in the end discovered it was not necessary, as I ended up taking the back panel off of the washer to replace the belt)
-Position new shock absorber in mounting brackets
-Manually extend shock absorbers to line up with pin holes
-Tap pins into place
(For lower right, the pin was captured by the circuit board enclosure. I was able to remove it but ended up removing the two mounting screws for the enclosure to reinstall the lower shock absorber pin)
-Reinstall drain boot & spring clamp
-Replace front service panel

Drive belt:
-Remove back panel of washer (multiple phillips head screws around perimeter)
-Remove old belt by pulling toward you and rotating drum
-Position new belt on motor pulley
-Position new belt on drum pulley
-Zip tie new belt to drum pulley to keep it engaged as you rotate the drum
(new belt will likely be much tighter than old belt)
-With belt installed on both pulleys, clip zip tie
-Rotate drum multiple times to ensure belt is centered and tracking properly
(if needed, the belt can be manipulated in/out while rotating drum to ensure engagement on drive (motor) pulley)
-Replace back panel
-Put unit back in service

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

Removed the back and lower panel in the front of machine. Turned it on its side to replace spring, not tools required. Then stood it up and replaced both shocks by removing plastic pins that hold them in place, no tools required. The only time you need tools is to remove the metal panels to get to the parts. Now it makes no noise and runs like a new washer. Paid $140 for the parts, a new machine would have cost over a thousand and would be one of those digital nightmares that don't last as long. This machine is 18 years old.

I watched the videos and replaced the shocks and suspension springs. This worked to stop the unit bouncing completely and cut the banging noise in half. Further diagnosis revealed a damaged drum and outer shell. The repair itself was very simple and didn't require special tools or skills. There is a tricky shock absorber locking pin on the right shock bottom position. There is a control box of some sort that prevents the complete removal of the pin without breaking it. On install, I simply pushed the pin through from the front. Ultimately, I ended up replacing the unit. However, I found the site to be extremely helpful. Great service.

(This is reply #2 of 2)
After I finally got all of the parts (at least the rear brackets and screws) I found that the panel only had one of two holes for the two horizontal screws.
After drilling a new hole in the left rear bracket position, I discovered that the 2 screws could not be threaded into the bracket pilot holes. Theyt froze up at the top of the taper in the threads. I had to increase the size of the hole 1/64" to get the screws in. There also is a trick to getting the bracket through the punched out hole in the panel- you must angle the bracket corner to corner then apply about 10# of preasure to the bracket to force it through the hole.
Other than that, the panel install went pretty well. Now I have to get the front brackets and springs and screws which are on backorder...

pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...

Unscrewed the broken knob. Screwed the new one one. Voila

First I tried to unscrew the two screws holding the latch with a phillips screwdriver. When it wanted to slip, I took a closer look at the screw heads and saw they were square drive. I got the proper tool and removed the screws, replaced the latch and replaced the screws in a few minutes.

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

Pump replacement quite simple - most difficult part of job was figuring out how to disassemble outer washing machine panels. Pump required disconnecting 2 hoses and an electrical connection.