FWT449GFS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

This is a newer washer, but I don't know the age. I just bought the house...!

I made this repair more difficult than it needed to be. I took off the back panel of the machine completely, only to discover the coupling for the hose was near the front of the machine. I tilted the unit on its side and took off the bottom before I discovered the access panel on the front, which is held on by only two screws. I put the bottom panel back on, tilted it upright, took off the panel, and had easy access to the coupling. The new part fit perfectly, and a quick wash load proved the leak was fixed.

First I went on-line and found a download for the parts catalogue which contains a schematic for the washer. After looking this over I could determine how to get the washer apart! After getting the front panel off, I disconnected the drain hose from the pump with a pair of water-pump pliers. As I pulled this hose out, water spilled out all over the floor, so I then cleaned that up. Next I connected the new hose and put the machine back together. This job would have cost me over $150 if I had called in a repairman. PartSelect saved me so much money, and I thank them so much!

1. replaced (2) shocks, remove bottom cover 2. (1) spring and rib belt, used a wooden block to hold up drum , rolled out ld belt and rolled in new----remove top and rear covers after replaced same ---thanks..

I was hoping it was the drain hose but it wasn't. It's a front load washer so I pulled the kick plate in the front (2 screws) removed the three clamps and put the new hose on. Easy job, saved a hundred or so from the repair man. Part cost 35 bucks!

I heard that the repair job was simple and the part was not expensive (whew!) The repair video on your website was MOST helpful and gave me confidence. At first I tried it exactly as the guy demonstrated and all went well removing the broken support. Installing the new one (on the right side) was impossible for me. I could not get good enough leverage to fully re-insert the lock pins and I was slicing up my arm on the sharp metal edges. I removed the 900+ screws (just kidding- but there were quite a few) from the back panel and could access the lock pins MUCH easier. All four for both shock absorbers snapped right in. Re-attaching the rubber vent hose involved a few cuss words but I got it back on correctly after taking a break. All is great with the little washing machine once again! Thank you for the installation video and amazingly fast shipping, wow.

Pulled the back off and it was right there. Hardest part was to get the belt all the way around the drive wheel on the washer tub. Found out that it wasn't just the belt. It is the shock absorbers that probably broke the belt, even though the belt was probably well over 15 years old. The bouncing and banging because of the absorbers being bad probably had something to do with the belt eventually breaking. Now, we need to replace the shock absorbers.A big thing to remember about the belt install....clean the drive wheel real good!!!

First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!

The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!

Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.

I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks

Removed top,removed hose from inlet valve to washer,removed hot and cold inlet hoses and with phillips screwdriver removed water inlet valve assy and replaced. Reassembled and tested.

My order arrived 2 days after i ordered same. Excellent service from partselect, Thank You....

I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went.
Garry

I began by removing the seal from the exterior lip of the machine housing. I took a razor and removed any rubber and adhesive that remained on the unit.

Next, I remove the boot from the soap dispenser tube (located at about 11:00 of the opening) with a needlenose plyers. The manual recommends flattening a 3" copper pipe to fashon a tool to release the "bread tie" fastener. I can see why but patience with a needlenose sufficed.

I pulled the boot down from the tub housing (with much force) exposing the band that holds the boot in firmly. I one pull, both pieces came out. I could tell getting the new one is was going to be a chore.

I cleaned the area and after about 40 strenuous minutes of getting the new boot onto the tub, only a couple things remained. Even with help, be prepared to dedicate hours of frustration getting the band around the boot securing it to the tub. The working space is minimal and the task is virtually hopeless to slightly possible.

Once that's taken care of, you may feel like you can accomplish anything. The rest goes up in the order it came out. Make sure you slide the boot up as far up the soap dispensing unit as possible before securing the bread tie clamp.

Run the seal around, close the door and have one of you kids clean up the work area (and mop the blood, sweat and tears from the unit and the floor.

repair wasn't too difficult, hardest was raising the drum to engage the springs.

Steps I took:

remove the rear and front (bottom) covers. To remove the rear cover, I went ahead and took the hoses off. The bottom cover needs a good tug once the two screws are removed.

Once both covers were off, it was obvious what had to be replaced.
Pushing the notch on the shocks, removed both top and bottom pieces. Then I used books to lift the drum so that i could attach the new springs. Removed the books, installed the shocks from the top to the bottom.

Went ahead and removed the coin drop, cleaned it out, and reattached. Ran the washer two cycles to confirm the vibrations were gone. Loaded it up with towels (seemed to cause the worst vibs) and it was quiet.

Re-installed the covers and that was it.

(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .