FDG747GES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
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Drum making noise when running ( rear bearing )
Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.
Parts Used:
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Ralph from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Thump or clang at regular intervals while in operation
UNPLUGGED the dryer!!! Search this site they have instructions for many of the tasks they sell parts for... disconnect the vent hose, removed the access panel for the motor & belt (rear) (1/4 nut driver), slipped the belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley, carefully lifted the front edge of the top panel & rotated it back on the hinges, labeled and removed the door interlock wires (2), removed 4 screws securing the top of the front panel (5/16 nut driver) (magnetic is best), removed a yellow guide also attached to the top of the front support (5/16 nut driver), rotated the top of the front panel clear of the drum opening (while supported) and lifted the front panel off the bottom guides, carefully lifted the back of the drum straight up about an inch while supporting the front of the drum, remove the drum from the opening created by removing the front panel (the belt should come out with the drum, removed the rear parts of the new bearing (atteched to teh back of the dryer) 5/16 nut driver... you will need a helper to catch the ball bearing holder on the exterior back of the dryer in the middle, unscrew the drum half of the bearing assembly from inside the drum (3 phillips head screws). I have done this several years ago and you will be amazed at how much dust and lint there is... CLEAN AND VACUUM EVERYWHERE AND THEN ALL THE PLACES YOU MISSED DONT FORGET THE VENT HOSE. Clean all of the old grease from the back of the drum and dryer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the new grease and DON"T loose the cute little ball bearing that comes in the new kit. There are lots of sharp metal edges inside so use caution and hopefully you got a new belt since belt replacement requires all of the same steps except for the actual bearing removal.
I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.
Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.
I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.
Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.
Parts Used:
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Scott D from East Fallowfield, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Loud squealing
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
Parts Used:
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John from Avis, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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clothes getting caught on top left of drum leaving brown stains
disconnected power unlocked both top sides ,lift top back and take top 2 screws out, then unhooked wiring,then remove whole front away from drum.scrap off all the remaining pieces, then glue and wait till tacky, then apply
front lower basket seal and top drum glide seal,replace the front ,hook wires back to proper place , put the two top screw back on!!! happy drying!!!
front lower basket seal and top drum glide seal,replace the front ,hook wires back to proper place , put the two top screw back on!!! happy drying!!!
Parts Used:
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george from midland, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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burn marks on clothes
Taking apart the dryer was easy. Pop the top, take out two screws, separate the front panel from the drum. Removed the old felt seals but much remained. Used a wire wheel on my drill to clean off felt and old glue (most difficult part). Applied new glue,used a band clamp, one hour later I reassembled the dryer; works fine. No more burn marks on clothes!
Parts Used:
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Robert from Camby, IN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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belt was broken drum wouldnt turn
disconnect power and remove front panel and controls.
Remove old belt and reassemble. Had trouble getting the front drum seal with the load bearing glides to fit as trying to replace the screws that supported it. Getting the belt under the motor to the pulley which is beween the mottor and the blower is a trip.
Anyway done and working. Thanks for being there with the poarts at a fair price
Remove old belt and reassemble. Had trouble getting the front drum seal with the load bearing glides to fit as trying to replace the screws that supported it. Getting the belt under the motor to the pulley which is beween the mottor and the blower is a trip.
Anyway done and working. Thanks for being there with the poarts at a fair price
Parts Used:
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Jay from New Bern, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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tub rubbing, clother getting stuck and burning
removed old seal and drum glide. sanded off old glue. replaced with new parts, cleaned out the whole bottom of the dryer, runs good as new.
Parts Used:
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Paula from Somerset, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Dryer drum stopped spinning
First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.
Parts Used:
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Ron from Senatobia, MS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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the fan broke in half
i used one screw driver universal to pop off the cover then, i unscrewed the 2 screws off one on the left side and one on the right side, then useing the screw driver i popped off the left and right off the dryer houseing body their are 2 wires 2 unplug then at the back of the dryer theirs a vent 4 screw take then off then take off the belt then on screw the drum from in side pull out the drum,then 2 more wires to unplug now take off the blower housing with the motor and unscrewed the fan then your done. put it back the same way 15 to 30 mins
Parts Used:
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PEDRO from BRONX, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Rust Spots on the clothes....
OK, this is a follow-on repair story.. I *did not* order the lower basket seal when I ordered the upper basket seal... shame!!! BUT, I am now exceptionally quick at removing the front panel - less than 20 seconds!!!
For those who are considering doing this repair, there are more detailed explanations below - my only tip to help do this "quickly" would be to get some automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old adhesive .. it is AMAZINGLY effective.. The best part is, don't worry about completely removing the old felt when you are tearing it off.. If some is still stuck to the door, it will actually hold some of the brake cleaner in contact with the old adhesive, which accelerates dissolving of the adhesive. Scrape it all off with a plastic scraper, and wipe it down a few times - surface is prepped & ready for the new adhesive + basket seal.. Use spring loaded clamps to hold the seal in place as you install it also.
For those who are considering doing this repair, there are more detailed explanations below - my only tip to help do this "quickly" would be to get some automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old adhesive .. it is AMAZINGLY effective.. The best part is, don't worry about completely removing the old felt when you are tearing it off.. If some is still stuck to the door, it will actually hold some of the brake cleaner in contact with the old adhesive, which accelerates dissolving of the adhesive. Scrape it all off with a plastic scraper, and wipe it down a few times - surface is prepped & ready for the new adhesive + basket seal.. Use spring loaded clamps to hold the seal in place as you install it also.
Parts Used:
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Lincoln from rio rancho, NM
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Dryer leaving brown spots on clothes
First I raised the top of dryer, then removed 2 screws holding the front of dryer to the sides. removed old drum glide using a putty knife and glued new glide in place with glue provided. replaced front and top. The whole job took about 20 minuets and saved me the cost of new dryer
Parts Used:
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Michael from Smyrna, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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The clothes was getting stuck on the tumbler
First I removed the 2 screws on the back. These 2 screws hold the top cover. I also used a flat screw driver to press the 2 locks that hold the top cover, they are located in front and under the top cover . Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the front cover. After removing the front cover I replaced the drum glider and the seal-basket lower. Now my dryer is working perfectly...
Parts Used:
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Juan from Dallas, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Clothes getting caught in the drum and getting rust stains
Looking from the front at the top cover I lifted the cover with my fingers and inserted a screw driver about one or two inches from each edge.
The top pops loose and lifts up like the hood of a car.
Inside the dryer on either side behind the front panel there is one screw on each side. Remove the screws and lift the entire panel and door. Then swing the assembly out like a door with a hinge on the right. It won't come off due to the wiring harness.
Make sure you study the upper drum glide before removing it. Remove the upper drum glide using Acetone, this is easy but a little messy.
Apply glue, I applied to the drum but if I did it again I would apply it to the glide and clamp it to the drum in three or four places.
This is an income property and my tenants weren't happy so I didn't wait for the other parts. I don't know now if I really needed them. I will replace them anyway.
I realize they make these things easy to repair. It makes the $200+ they charge that much more profitable.
I also vacuumed and cleaned inside.
This is pretty easy and does not require much skill.
Position the panel on the dryer. There are two clips that need to lined up on the bottom and fit the drum back on. Then snap the top cover in and test the dryer.
Remove the top replace the front panel screws and snap the top back in.
I wish I could post pictures there really isn't much to it.
For property owners I would recommend learning how to do this prior to getting a call.
Create a kit of parts that will wear or break. $100 will save you the hassle of ordering under pressure and get you up and running that much faster.
The top pops loose and lifts up like the hood of a car.
Inside the dryer on either side behind the front panel there is one screw on each side. Remove the screws and lift the entire panel and door. Then swing the assembly out like a door with a hinge on the right. It won't come off due to the wiring harness.
Make sure you study the upper drum glide before removing it. Remove the upper drum glide using Acetone, this is easy but a little messy.
Apply glue, I applied to the drum but if I did it again I would apply it to the glide and clamp it to the drum in three or four places.
This is an income property and my tenants weren't happy so I didn't wait for the other parts. I don't know now if I really needed them. I will replace them anyway.
I realize they make these things easy to repair. It makes the $200+ they charge that much more profitable.
I also vacuumed and cleaned inside.
This is pretty easy and does not require much skill.
Position the panel on the dryer. There are two clips that need to lined up on the bottom and fit the drum back on. Then snap the top cover in and test the dryer.
Remove the top replace the front panel screws and snap the top back in.
I wish I could post pictures there really isn't much to it.
For property owners I would recommend learning how to do this prior to getting a call.
Create a kit of parts that will wear or break. $100 will save you the hassle of ordering under pressure and get you up and running that much faster.
Parts Used:
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john from Oak Park, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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belt broke
Took it apart, lost several screws cause I am an Idiot, placed belt back on, cut hand on back of dryer bled over every thing, curse loudly, put it back together and wiped the blood off, worked perfect!
I went great, worked fine, thanks for your very quick shipment. I will always buy from you if I can!
Thanks again
Bill Manning Florida
I went great, worked fine, thanks for your very quick shipment. I will always buy from you if I can!
Thanks again
Bill Manning Florida
Parts Used:
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William from Ellenton, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Main drum bearing was worn out.
First and most important, I unplugged the dryer and then pulled it out to work on it. Disassembly: I removed the top and front of the dryer, removed the belt from the drive pulley, and lifted the drum out of the bearing seat. I removed the old main bearing from the drum and the bearing seat from the back of the dryer. Re-assembly: I installed the new parts, set the drum back into the new seat, set the belt on the drive pulley, and put the covers back on. It all goes very quickly and easily.
Parts Used:
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Frederic from Rock Springs, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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