FAFS4272LW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

First I watched a youtube video on how to do it. Then I took to machine apart and was able to replace the boot in a short period of time. You have to be careful when putting it on so the guides in the rubber line up with the pipes. It is a good idea to check the filter every few years because it does collect lint and strings that will clog the drain and cause the machine to leak or drain slowly.

Using a youtube video, (which might have actually been related to parts select), the door lock replacement went smoothly AFTER I couldn't SEE the SPRING around the rubber boot, as the spring was the SAME color and with a little bit of dust on it, was indistinguishable. As soon as I found it, the rest was fairly simple. I MIGHT even try replacing the moldy boot on these stupid front loaders...I paid for overnight shipping as I also had Geek squad guys on hold for repair, and needed to know fast, whether or not this would do the trick. HOORAY!

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

There was not a video available on your site so I went to U-Tube and found one. Instead of reaching the part from the top I took off the rubber boot from the front and it was so much easier. Once I found and watched the video the entire repair took about 15 minutes. Now the washer works like new!!

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

This is the second part I have put on it and it still does not work. It is now leaking some also. So tonight I replaced it.

Removed the door lock and switch assembly. With needle nose pliers, I removed the metal ring around the washer gasket. Removed two screws on assembly and removed the entire assembly. Noted part number and ordered part which came in 3 days. Reversed the above instuctions for removing the assembly. Was washing within the hour. By the way, I am a 65 year old woman.

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!

Completed by my wife on line instruction video

very easy, just put in the 2 screws and it was fixed..

Removed retaining band around door boot and prized-off boot on left side to access door lock - simple screw driver replacement job. Deleted last error code. BUT - washer worked again for several days, and now code E43 is back and won't spin - problem is intermittent - so suspect it is NOT the door lock, but a wiring or control board problem. Ongoing.

Removed two phillips screws. Removed old door striker. Replaced with new door striker. Replaced old phillips screws. Job takes less than 1 minute.

Remove the top cover and the doorlacth and unplug the old parts as simple as that

Take a deep breath and say, "I can do this. I will not pay well over $100 for someone else to come and do it."! Identifying part easy, mail very quick, web instructions clear, took out two screws, slipped out old part, put in new one, replace screws. I loved every minute of it and it cost $16.20 (part and shipping). Thanks, Part Select!