FA2950 Amana Washer - Instructions

1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.

Shut off water supply, unplugged washer power, removed supply hoses from old washer valve assembly, removed valve mounting plate and removed old valve assembly from mounting plate, diagrammed and disconnected hot and cold solenoid valve wiring and removed valve assembly outlet hose. Installed and connected new valve, performing the preceding steps in reverse order. pressurized new valve, verified valve function and checked for leaks and placed washer back in service.

Diagnosed the problem and ordered the part online in about 15 minutes. Part arrived about 3 days later. I followed the directions that came with the part and VOILA! washing amchine fixed. I unplugged the washing machine. I unscrewed the the screws at the back of the machine. Pulled out the faulty part and disconnected the electrical wires. Connected the electrical wires to the new part, and screwed it back in. In less than 30 minutes, I was done.

First, I opened up the back of the machine to see the way the water got into the tub. I turned off the water at the pipes, unplugged the machine, and disconnected the hoses from back. There were no leaks with the hoses, so I looked at the part that managed the water flow when operating and went on line to find the part.
I found it and then ordered it from partselect.com. I got it two days later. I looked at how the other part was connected to the hoses and reused a clamp. I recommend getting a new hose clamp to make fitting it faster. I felt great after I got it to work, so that we didn't have to buy a new washer (the part was only $26). I think that Repair should be added to Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

Took out 2 5/16" screws and loosened top and took off two ground wires and 2 hot wires for cold & hot water solenoids and removed & replaced solenoid wires and fill hose. Also Had fantastic delivery of parts.

1. Identify washer model and symptom
2. review page of suggested part; view installation video
3. order part with standard shipping
4. receive part next day and install just as the video showed

Entire job from going to PartSelect website to completion took less than 24 hours. Hardest part was moving the washing machine. Machine is nineteen years old and now works perfectly. Unmatched service.

I had taken the washer out and replaced both hoses, and the leak stopped for a load or two. I then replaced the water inlet valve, because I could see that the plastic threads were pretty bad. The repair is very simple on this model. There is no need to open the cabinet at all, the entire job is done on the back. I used a socket and the stubby driver for the mounting screws and switched to a screwdriver tip and opened the clamp on the hose leading to the air gap assembly. The entire operation took about five minutes. The repair worked for two or three loads.

The water leak came back, so after some searching I finally figured out how to open the cabinet, and that took longer than actually doing it. The front opens with two big screws located on the front about 4" above the floor, just in the corner of the indentation on the panel.

With the top tipped up (tape the lid!) out of the way, the leak proved to be coming out of the air gap assembly. There is an injector nozzle and a rubber sleeve that goes over it. They fit in the large black hose. I easily opened the hose clamp, removed the old parts, put in the new one. The rubber sleeve has a cover that goes over the edge of the plastic injection nozzle. You have to make sure it is entirely and smoothly inserted. Easy. Then insert it all the way to the shoulder of the end of the hose with that wide end facing into the hose and the other end open. Slip the open end through the bracket and into the other hose. Tighten all your clamps, and carefully pressure test. Do not touch any metal parts if there is water spewing. Just turn it off, pull the plug, and fix the problem. In my case, it worked perfectly, and I turned it off, replaced the front and the job was done.

Despite the great advice I got here, I ended up getting the nozzle parts in town. I had to go to an appliance parts outlet rather than a place like Home Depot, but it was quick and no shipping. Still, I would not have tried this without the great advice and fast service here.

Unplug washing machine.
Disconnect water supply hoses.
Remove valve service panel, 1 screw.
Remove valve from panel with wires attached. 2 screws.
Remove water outlet hose from old valve.
Mount new valve to panel. 2 screws.
Attach water outlet to valve.
Move wires from old valve to new valve.
Dress wires.
Reinstall valve service panel, 1 screw.
Install new wire braded supply hoses.
Done. Hope to get another 20 years of service.

My experience with my repair is as follows:
After determining the "hot water" solenoid was weak and that a new fill valve was needed, I placed my order with PartSelect on Thursday and to my suprise, had it in my hand Friday evening (no special shipping). WOW talk about fast! But unfortunately the part was broken.
Called PartSelect back Saturday morn to explain my problem and was told that I would be credited for the broken part and that a replacement would be sent ASAP probably arriving on Wednesday. Again to my suprise, the part arrived on Tuesday morning.
Hats off to you guys for great service, prices and no hassles.

Dennis Fleming
North Billerica, MA

I watched a sample repair on YouTube and read the instructions that came with the part. All went as planned/described.

Exactly as the video showed. This was a very simple repair. The only extra thing I did was to replace the mesh screen/gasket at the hose ends. They were plugged with crud. PartSelect saved me from buying a new washing machine. Yay!

pulled the front panel first, then lifted the top(2bolts in each).
Then unhooked water and unbolted the water inlet valve from the back left corner behind the tub.four wires are connected Pay attenion to where they go, for easy reinstallation.NOTE: watch the clips in the front of the washer they flew off and it took half an hour on the internet finding out how they went back on.

took hose off then took three 5/16 screws then clamp off reversed order to put back on check for leaks ok