DVM1850DM3BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.

Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.

It was very easy to remove the old charcoal filter and insert the new charcoal filter(had done it before with with the replacement filter GE had included with the purchase).

.Thank You Dan

Remove two screws on the top of the grill. Slide the grill to the left and then pull straight off. Slide the filter in place. Replace grill and screws

unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.

I went to your site and looked up the schematic parts list and determined how to remove the grill and install the filter. I had the grill off and when the filter arrived I put it in, replaced grill and screws and then in about 20 min had the microwave installed on the wall and operating. By the way the part arrived about three days earlier than estimated. Thanks for your prompt response. You are on my favorites list for future appliance parts.

I placed the glasstop on the sprocket

Simply removed screw, pulled down light holder, unfoled the metal tabs, took out the broken pieces and replaced the glass lens and light bulb.

llation

I took the part out of the box and handed it to my wife and said "here ya go hun, go put this under the glass turntable in the microwave. You'll know it's installed when you hear it click down" She yelled back, "easy as pie" - - - Humm.. I can't make a pie. Fortunately the old one was in one piece as the side just split so it slid off very easy. The new one just snapped in place.

I unscrewed two screws on top of the microwave, slid the part (which opens when the microwave is in use) to the left and put it aside. The old filter is then easily picked up and removed. I placed the new filter in the same spot. I repositioned the removed part in place, lining up the little tabs, slid it to the right, which automatically lined up for replacement of the screws. These directions were included with the new filter and it was very easy to follow. I can't believe anyone would pay someone else to do this simple task! I am a 67 year old female.