DVM1850DM3BB General Electric Microwave - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W 130V – Part Number: WB36X10003
$27.89
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Light Bulb - 40W 130V
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(4)
Part #WB36X10003
This 40-watt microwave light bulb is a genuine replacement component designed to provide interior illumination for compatible GE microwave models. Engineered to withstand the high temperatures within the microwave cavity, it allows users to monitor food during cooking without opening the door, preserving heat and cooking efficiency. The bulb’s compact design ensures a secure fit and consistent lighting performance. Replacement is typically straightforward and involves accessing the light housing inside the microwave. Always disconnect power before installation to ensure safety.
Light Socket - 250V 75W – Part Number: WB08X10016
$35.95
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Light Socket - 250V 75W
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Part #WB08X10016
Light bulb not included.
Flat Cab Mounting Bolt – Part Number: WB01X10180
$16.95
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Flat Cab Mounting Bolt
Part #WB01X10180
This part is the replacement flat cab mounting bolt for your microwave. The bolt is approximately 4 inches long. It is designed to hold the microwave in place in your cabinet. The main reason to replace this bolt, would be if the old bolt is stripped or missing, and the microwave will not stay secure in the cabinet. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer, and it is sold individually.
Grease Filter – Part Number: WB06X10596
$81.10
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Grease Filter
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Part #WB06X10596
This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
Glass Light Lens – Part Number: WB36X10071
$28.20
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Microwave Halogen Light Bulb – Part Number: WB36X10213
$36.73
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Microwave Halogen Light Bulb
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Part #WB36X10213
This halogen light bulb is an inch and a half long. Carrying 120 volts and 20 watts, it is used with some microwave ovens.
Monitor Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X830
$58.30
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Glass Turntable Coupler – Part Number: WB06X10144
No Longer Available
Glass Turntable Coupler
Part #WB06X10144
This part accepts a D-shaped motor shaft.
Charcoal Filter – Part Number: WB02X10733
$153.66
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Charcoal Filter
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Part #WB02X10733
Keep your kitchen air fresh with this charcoal filter for your microwave. It traps grease and odors while you cook, helping your microwave vent properly. It’s easy to install—just slide it into place. Be sure to check your microwave’s model number to make sure it fits.
Glass Cooking Tray – Part Number: WB49X10063
$117.41
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Glass Cooking Tray
Part #WB49X10063
This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures and is approx.14-1/2 inches in diameter.

Manuals & Care Guides for DVM1850DM3BB

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Questions And Answers for DVM1850DM3BB

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Susan - For model number DVM1850DM3BB
July 1, 2021
Quit working. To replace is it 1.9 cubic feet?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Susan, Thank you for your question. The microwave is 1.8 cubic feet. If your microwave will not turn on, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the secondary door switch, the monitor door switch, the light socket, the thermal fuse, the thermostat cut out and the hood thermostat. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
$35.95
Special Order
Light Socket - 250V 75W
No Longer Available
Secondary Door Switch
$58.30
Special Order
Monitor Door Switch
No Longer Available
Hood Thermostat
No Longer Available
Thermal Fuse
$51.20
Special Order
Thermostat Cut-Out
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Common Symptoms of the DVM1850DM3BB

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
320 of 387 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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Light bulb out, tried to remove, lamp socket broke
222 of 270 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gene from Urbana, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Above the stove mounted microwave. I dropped the lens cover from under the bulb and tried to remove the bulb. The bulb separated from the base. I tried to remove the base with a pliers and the lamp socket broke. I ordered the parts and dropped the bottom cover of the unit down (5 screws). Removed 1 screww from the lamp socket, unplugged t he wires and took it out. Simply replaced socket, fastened bottom cover of microwave, installed new bulb and closed lens cover.
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bulb had broken off in base that was still screwed into socket
93 of 109 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from san antonio, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
At first I tried to use pliers to unscrew the base,very uncomfortable working position,upside down and backwards(the microwave is installed over the range top)very limited space for your body and arms to manuver and you really cant see the base,all of this took place after the breaker was turned off ofcourse,finally figured out that you c an drop the entire bottom housing of the microwave by unscrewing 6 screws and the light sockets are easily accessable once you lower it,take out 1 retaining screw ,remove the entire socket and unscrewed the broken base and replaced the bulbs,I said bulbs,there is no sense in having to replace another bulb in who knows how long since only one had burned out but they were both the same age
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