DFE28JMKCES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed all containers from the freezer,
Removed lower freezer door, 3 bolts on each side.
Removed one front screw on the ice maker, unplugged two connectors on slide off unit
Removed covers on the old ice maker and installed on the new one
Installed the new ice maker in reverse of the removal process

Inspected the old ice maker and found the motor drive gear had missing teeth; I believe that the heater on the ice maker was failing causing a strain on the drive gears

Pulled out out shelf and inserted new one

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

Popped it up and popped new one on

It was very simple. Removed 4 screws on top of door where panel is located. Unplug 3 three connectors and removed board. reinstalled new one in reverse mode. On the down side this did not solve the problem. I am still working on it.

Once I opened the left hand door and removed the ice bucket, I simply removed the 3 small screws and removed the old part and replaced it with the new part.

Ordered a replacement ice maker. Simple to remove old unit one screw and one screw to remove wire cover to unplug. Replacement unit looked a little different as the left side of the new unit had various ridges which did not allow a proper fit into ice making box. After examining old unit and new I swapped the old left cover with new left cover and unit fit perfectly and it is working correctly. I suggest adding a quick note about the upgraded part as it may not fit properly and the side cover may have to swapped out.

Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.

Freezer door removed with two allen screws.

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Replaced door circuit board. Vert simple to do. Problem was not solved! Replaced the main board with advice of ge tech. problem not solved. Currently waiting for the Tech to reappear. Not a happy person

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

Snap filter into place while holding the filter slightly away from the refrig. When filter snaps into place, push it towards refrig into place.

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.