DE180 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I removed the old element and replaced it. There were only two screw to deal with once I had the front panel off of the dryer. The electrical hookups were easy and the part I got fit exactly like the old part. I had to work at it a bit to get the back end to fit into the exhaust hose, but once that was taken care of this was one of the easiest appliance repairs ever. I agree with the repair man that first told me to fix it, these old machines are worth a few dollars to keep running. They work great!

No big deal about replacing a lint filter , take the old one out and put the new one in.

No manual on this so had to remove about 12 screws to figger out disassembly,after locating the right ones[front]the job was easy.Remove front plate,remove drum bearing,remove blower front cover,remove snap ring,remove broken fan,clean fan shaft,slide new fan onto shaft[there is a flat in the bore of new fan]instal fan retainer on stub of fan,reinstal snap ring,reinstal the rest of the parts,test drive system[all sat]The part was exactly as ordered,thanks,Jim Thompson

The 2 screws that hold the front cover to the dryer was hard to see because they are facing down.
After the 2 front screws were removed from the dryer, the heater was easily accessed. All I had to do was to remove the old heater assembly and transfer the limit sensor and wire on the assembly. The hardest part to the repair was fitting the rear end of the heater assembly to the back duct. I just bent the edges to conform to the rear duct where they mate together. Once I got the heater to line up, the rest was easy. Remember to use a shop vac to clean up the inside of the dryer since you have it all opened up. You'll be amazed at what you will find!
My dryer was up and running in no time and my wife was happy and so was I that we didn't have to buy a new dryer!!!

Using a "Fix it Yourself book" and following a simple test method (measuring ohms) to determine if heating element or if it could be a heat sensor or something else was bad. Going slow the heating element was ID'd to be the problem in about one hour. Searched on line and found your site, ordered the part and in 1 day had the part. It took about an hour to install. Wife is very happy. Overall an easy task. Thanks much.

I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

I looked for dryer repair videos on my computer. I found several and they all showed me that what was most likely broken was the tumbler belt. I didn't even know dryers had a belt. My dryer still turned on,and still produced heat. It just wouldn't rotate. One of the videos even used the exact Maytag dryer in their video that I had. After watching it a few times, I knew I could make this repair. I am pretty good at fixing things if I can first see it done. I had never taken a dryer apart before though. I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. I unscrewed the small access panel on the back of the dryer. This let me see the two belt pulleys back there. Then I went to the front and removed the two screws(my particular model) that held the front panel on and removed it. I then unscrewed the four screws holding on the front face plate in front of the tumbler. Next, I pulled the tumbler out, it is not screwed in. There was the broken belt. It took two days with regular shipping for the belt to come in. I put the tumbler back in, resting it on its two supports, placed the belt on, flat side down, and routed the belt through the pulleys in the back of the dryer exactly as it had been shown in the videos. I turned the tumbler clockwise two full rotations by hand to make sure the belt was seated correctly on the pulleys, and it was. I then screwed the face plate back on in front of the tumbler, put the front panel back on and screwed it in. I then reattached the back access panel. I plugged the dryer back in and turned it on. It worked. Though it may take a bit longer, this type of repair is about as easy as replacing a broken belt on a vacuum cleaner even for someone who has never done a dryer repair before. Watch a Repair Clinic video and if you enjoy fixing things, replacing a belt on a clothes dryer will be your next successful repair. It really is pretty easy.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

Took the front off , removed front drum support, drilled out existing rivets, & replaced slides,riveted them in place,and re-assembled.

I began by unplugging the dryer cord to cut any power to the appliance. I removed the front two screws that hold the front cover on and removed the front cover. I began by cleaning the lint and dust out of the dryer. After getting a look at it, I Googled Maytag to get an idea of possibilities of the problem. I took out the 4 screws that held the heating element into the dryer, and unhooked two wirers,( making sure there was no electrical source). I pulled the heating element out and immediately saw that the element wire was broken. I called Partselect and the person on the other end of the line was extremely knowledeable and willing to help. I was given the option of ordering the heating wire and stringinging it in the original housing or I could order the comlpete heating unit for a little more which woold save me from the extra work of installing it and also insure that the insulators that the wires went through were all new and I would not have to inspect each one and possibly have the same problem later if I missed a bad one and the heating element would short out and I would be back where I was now. I felt good that in hard economic times I could get my appliance up and running without calling the repairman @ 100dollars an hour. There was a fantastic sense of accomplishment that I fixed it myself! I could brag about that. Before I would throw the appliance away and get another used one. I had already shopped the local papers and craigs list but did not need to leave the house for it and arrange hauling because the parts were sent to my house and I was able to repair it myself. It was really a rewarding experiance and turned out fantastic! Parselect was a pleasure to deal with.

1. Popped out old latch from dryer with a screw driver and pressed in new latch with fingers. Did not need to replace the part that is in the door. Very simple repair.
2. Lint filter was worn out and needed replacing.

Installation of drum support kit was difficult because my snap ring pliers would not fit in the snap ring holes. Had to use pliers and screw driver to get them off and to put them back on. That took much patience and time. Installation of front guides was a bit difficult because the rivets were loose and turned when trying to drill them out. Also they were bigger and I needed a larger drill bit than the 1/8 told about in the video. Used drill, screw driver and pliers to get the rivets out. Also took more time and patience to do this. Belt did not need replacement but felt it a good idea to do it as long as I was in there. Belt installation was easy because my dryer has a rear view opening and I could use it to thread the belt. Tried it from the front as shown in the video just to see if I could and found it impossible. Could not even get my hands to hold the belt. Also vacuumed out 20 years of lint and dust that was inside the dryer. The videos were excellent in showing what to do and how to do it. Not sure how well I would have done without them.

Every two to three years, the blower wheel gets chewed out in the center where it attaches to the motor shaft. I have learned the sound of it starting to rattle so I know to order a new blower before the air stops moving altogether. Replacing it is very easy if you have tiny sockets or nut drivers and a pair of snap ring pliers.

When working on this dryer, be aware that the heater wires are always "hot", even when the dryer is not running. You are only likely to touch one at a time so the worst you will feel is 120 volts. The shock probably won't hurt you but you may cut yourself jerking your arm out of the dryer. Best to unplug the dryer or open the circuit breaker before sticking your arm in there!

Disassembled per instructions. Additional time used to clean inside unit.. Its much easier to install belt on motor pulley and tension pulley ( Roller) from rear access panel. Also ensures proper belt alignment on all items.