CFW4700LW0 Crosley Washer - Instructions

unscrewed the 2screws from the striker on the washer door first. Then put screwed new striker on door with its new screws. It was a piece of cake.

put new part did reset on main controles

I was amazed at how quickly my part came for the washer and it came to me on a Saturday

Nothing to it rteall. The great thing was how fast this company got the part to me!

Unscrew the the bad part, screw on the new part

with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.

Washer error code said control board($200.) but this web site said Door Lock and Switch assembly($80). Web site was correct, thankyou for saving me money and time for the real repair needed.

took the top off removed the old one and put in the new one.Works great!!

After some research online about my Frigidaire Washer, I pre-determined that the problem could likely be the lock mechanism. I ordered the part and it arrived within 3 business days. My son removed the screws from the back of the washer, slid the top off and removed the old part and replaced it with the new part. It took about 20 mins. The machine is now working properly again. The door catch that I ordered did not work with the door lock I ordered. However, the old door catch that was still in good working order does work with the new door lock and switch assembly that I purchased.

Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!

I unscrewed the two screws and replaced with new door striker and used the same two screws I took out. It took me seriously less than 2 minutes and I am a woman!

It took all of five minutes, two screws and done. Saved $150.00 on the service charge, while the part cost less than $15.00 for the parts including S/H.

Followed the YouTube video and was done in less than 10 minutes. This is the second time that I've purchased this part from your company and will continue to return because of the high usage of our washer, the part needs replacing every 3 years or so.

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!