CDB3100AWT Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Piece of cake. I panicked for a minute before I realized that there was a threaded brass 90 in the inlet valve. It looked like it was the wrong part for a minute. Once I got the 90 reinstalled in the new valve, I had it back together in 10 minutes. It seems to be working better.

First unplug the unit. Open door. Take a special tool to remove all the screws (star shaped) around the edge of the door, and remove plastic panel where motor for detergent cup sits. Remove wires (two) from the motor. Remove wax motor by unsnapping motor from its cradle--comes out by moving the fingers holding it in. Push new motor into position, being sure the round pin sticking out at the end (on the left side) so that it sits in the groove made for it. Replace panel and screws, plug power cable back into its box. Close detergent cup door, turm on dishwasher, run through cycle, open door and check to see if detergent door opened up. If it did, then fill with dishes and wash.

I pulled out the old rack, removed the spraying apparatus, attached it to the new rack and slid it into place.

1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model)
2) Tipped it onto its back
3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver)
4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers)
5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring.
6) Removed broken link
7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door.
8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers.
9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.

First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.

The rack assembly was not altogether assembled. Had to remove one part from the old one and reassemble on the new. Also, The racks that make place for a bowl instead of plates was not assembled.

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

purchased disk rack was complete exept for the water diffuser in the middle of the rack. Merely pulled to old rack out with no tools, twisted out the diffuser and tweisted in to the new rack.

No tools or instructions required.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!

Turned off water at valve, removed float switch, removed water inlet vlv. Replaced and reassembled. Still not water going into the machine. I have no voltage to the valve or float switch. I then took the door apart to find there were burnt wires as well as a burn mark on the control panel. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the door seal has failed and water got into the door. Had to replace dishwasher with a new one.

I first removed both lower front shields,(4 screws)
I then shut off water supply to inlet valve from hot water supply. I removed the water hose from inlet valve,two electrical terminals,( I put tape on right side terminal and lettered with an R as not to mix up the two terminals)removed the hose clamp,removed valve from frame.I reinstalled in reverse procedure.I turned the water back on and checked for leaks.I started the normal cycle and water flowed into the dishwasher as designed.

I followed instructions of others that were posted. Door seal was simply removing old seal, cleaning track and pushing new seal in,making sure it was even all around. Removing the door cover to get at the Dispenser grommet was simply removing all 7 hex nut screws. Had to go out and buy the proper hex nut screwdriver . I did not remove the wiring, just turned cover over to remove the two nuts holding the dispenser. The nut on the left was a little hard to get off, had to kind of force the socket onto the nut. Otherwise all went well and simply removed the old grommet and installed new one. Finding the right tools was the part that took the longest. I had hard water before putting in a water softener so that was probably hard on the seals plus the machine was an older model. No problems now and saved having someone come in and do a repair.

Removed 7 Torx Screws ... removed inner door panel ... snapped off the selinoid after noting the exact original position ... removed the Latch assembly 2 hex head screws ... removed the old Grommet which was crumbling apart ... stretched the new grommet in place. Then did the steps in reverse to complete a successful repair.
Thanks to your website, quick turn-around service and customer's repair stories, I probably saved a few dollars but mostly, I realized how much I love my dishwasher now more than ever!

I removed the screws holding on the interior door panel. This exposed the soap dispenser latch mechanism. After removing the two retaining screws I transferred the original parts to the new retainer and replaced the grommet prior to reinstallation of the mechanism and interior door panel. A savings of probably $100.00 or more for a service call and parts. Should last a few more years.