AZ2727GIHB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

This repair didn't go as easily as I had hoped because I made a couple of mistakes. I'll describe them so maybe someone can avoid it.
First, in order to remove the old part, you only need to remove the hex head screw on the lower left side (underneath) of the ice enclosure. The whole plastic piece will then slide up and can be pulled out. I removed all the screws in the very back of the plastic tray (near the broken plastic from around the motor) before removing the part and several parts fell out when I removed the tray. Luckily I was able to see how they go back together. Just wait to remove those screws until you pull the plastic unit out and you'll be okay. The other challenge was disconnecting the motor/solenoid from the back of the refridgerator. You can't see it so you have to go by feel. Pinch the top and bottom of the plastic connector and pull straight out. It should come out easily. You'll have to put it back in by feel too. Once the old part was out of the refridgerator, the new part was easy to assemble. Be careful that the wires don't disconnect from the solenoid or the motor or make sure you know how to reattach them. Other than those items, it was an easy repair.

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Taking everything apart and eyeballing what was wrong only took 15 minutes and one tool, the T15 torx driver ... a star screwdriver.

Disclaimer: I am 79 with arthritis. This should have taken about 15 minutes to put together. I made a couple of errors. I did not wind the ice door spring tight enough. It needs to be wound almost two turns ... so I had to do it over again. This is where I needed the long nose pliers to wind the spring.

The second mistake was I did not unplug the refrigerator. That is a basic safety precaution. I did not get shocked, but while I was working on it the ice was melting and refreezing, which created an ice jam at the ice door. All is working now. It is always satisfying to have fixed it myself.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Troubleshoot noise and linked it with no ice from dispenser due to the fact the auger motor was completely broken from enclosure. Search Internet for part number, and supplier. Order part on line convienance, wife did not tell me she picked up box from front porch, spent two days tracking down a box that was right inside the front door. Then... Remove ice bin. Unplug harness from rear wall behind ice enclosure. Remove 1 sheet metal screw from under enclosure with 1/4 nut driver. Remove enclosure. Remove auger motor, 4 machine screws. Remove despencer solenoid, yoke assembly, and yoke guide, 2 machine screws, 2 sheet metal screws. Assembly is reverse of removal.

Removed two star screws on plate, then two chute screws which allowed me to remove the chute. Then I removed the two screws which held the assembly in place, we had to pullout the assembly about three inches. (I had my wife hold that out of the way) Then I reached in behind the assembly and removed the chute door. At that point I saw that the tab which hold it in the opening mechanism was broken off. So I reassembled everything without the chute door and put a dishcloth in the chute to keep the cold in and the heat out. (during this time we had to manually take ice out of the hopper) I then went on line to partselect.com and ordered the part. It came in 3 days and my wife and I opened it all up again, snapped the chute door in place, removed the dishcloth, put the assembly and plate back together and it works like new.

Replacing the hinge pin itself is really easy. Most important is to brace the bottom of the door before replacing the pin, otherwise the door will drop as the bottom hinge must be removed to install the new pin.

A couple of short lengths of 2x4s used to brace the door bottom worked fine. With these in place the door did not drop down after removing the hinge. Replacement of the hinge and pin easy.

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

My dryer will not say hot. When I turn on the dryer, the flame will turn on but seconds later it turns off. I researched through various sites on the internet and decided my gas coils needed to be replaced. Well, that didn't work so I am currently ordering a ignitor assembly to try and fix the problem......wish me luck

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I removed the screws that held the control panel in place. Unplugged the wiring cable and put the control panel aside. I removed the old broken part and inserted the new part. Very easy. Put everything back together and it worked like new.

Removed 2 screws for front cover lifted front cover straight up to remove.Removed 2 more screws to remove ice door assembly, replaced ice door. Refrigerator should be unpluged before doing any of this to avoid getting shocked.

took off the covers and put in the new part and then put it back together.

Removed drive assembly end of ice bin using socket wrench to get to old ice bin drive ring. Pull drive sssembly back to get ice bin ring out of the other end of ice bin. Installed new ice bin ring and and reinstall drive assembly end.