AS2125CIHW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

Taking everything apart and eyeballing what was wrong only took 15 minutes and one tool, the T15 torx driver ... a star screwdriver.

Disclaimer: I am 79 with arthritis. This should have taken about 15 minutes to put together. I made a couple of errors. I did not wind the ice door spring tight enough. It needs to be wound almost two turns ... so I had to do it over again. This is where I needed the long nose pliers to wind the spring.

The second mistake was I did not unplug the refrigerator. That is a basic safety precaution. I did not get shocked, but while I was working on it the ice was melting and refreezing, which created an ice jam at the ice door. All is working now. It is always satisfying to have fixed it myself.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Emptied the door by taking out all the shelves with their contents. Removed the upper door closer works. Removed the door by lifting up and away from the main box. Layed the door on its side. Took out the old lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Put in the new lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Applied sewing machine gear grease to the 2 pieces where they work together. Lifted the door and placed the lower hinge pin into the door closer with cup. Replaced the upper door closer works.

Replacing the hinge pin itself is really easy. Most important is to brace the bottom of the door before replacing the pin, otherwise the door will drop as the bottom hinge must be removed to install the new pin.

A couple of short lengths of 2x4s used to brace the door bottom worked fine. With these in place the door did not drop down after removing the hinge. Replacement of the hinge and pin easy.

Removed two star screws on plate, then two chute screws which allowed me to remove the chute. Then I removed the two screws which held the assembly in place, we had to pullout the assembly about three inches. (I had my wife hold that out of the way) Then I reached in behind the assembly and removed the chute door. At that point I saw that the tab which hold it in the opening mechanism was broken off. So I reassembled everything without the chute door and put a dishcloth in the chute to keep the cold in and the heat out. (during this time we had to manually take ice out of the hopper) I then went on line to partselect.com and ordered the part. It came in 3 days and my wife and I opened it all up again, snapped the chute door in place, removed the dishcloth, put the assembly and plate back together and it works like new.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Removed drive assembly end of ice bin using socket wrench to get to old ice bin drive ring. Pull drive sssembly back to get ice bin ring out of the other end of ice bin. Installed new ice bin ring and and reinstall drive assembly end.