ACS3350AS0 Amana Range - Instructions

1. Removed drawer
2.Removed back panel (2 screws).
3. Disconnected power line from old igniter
4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter.
5. Replaced with new igniter.
Works like new.

Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).

Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls the broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.

My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

Easily replaced the stovetop burner bowls by removing the old ones and replacing with the new ones.

Parts Select provided easy online ordering and was nearly one-half the price of other online suppliers.The quality was excellent!

Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.

My repairman told me it was probably the ignitor (even though the old one sitll glowed), but after weeks of waiting for his back-ordered part, I decided to try it myself - found it on PartSelect and had it 3 days later. Turned off the power to the oven. Slid out the 2 racks, and the cover below the racks. Unscrewed 1 nut and removed the V shaped metal plate that distributes the heat. Under that removed 3 screws that hold the ignitor clip in place and got the igniter out of the clip. I couldn't get to the plug on the other end of the ignitor until I took out the oven drawer and removed 2 screws holding a metal cover in place below the oven. Reversed the whole process being careful with the end of the new ignitor (I read it was fragile). The oven now heats up in 5 minutes and maintains temperature again!

It was Tuesday before thanksgiving, panic as there was a big bird looking for a hot stove,
unplug stove from its electrical supply
turn off gas, not necessary but sometimes it's good to be safe.
inside oven remove bottom splash cover "pull towards you and lift out, then remove flame pan, one nut in the center, remove and lift out flame pan.
The oven ignitor was to the left of the burner, with 3 philips screws one attached to buner and the other two to the back of the stove, remove all three.
The ignitor is now loose,
remove bottom drawer and behind is a plate attched to the back of the stove with two screw, the screws are facing you as you look in where the drawer was, remove screws and plate to access the plug attatching the ignitor to its power supply .
go back to the oven and remove ignitor.
install new, feed plug through back, and put it all back together.
"ignitor very delicate, handle with care"
I am also not the biggest of guys and it can be awkward getting in the drawer space as you need both hands to plug it back in, so tilting the stove back, keeping safety in your thoughts at all times, would be a must for most people.

I removed the oven door by removing two screws, one above each hinge. With the door screws removed, position the door to the slightly open position and lift strength up to remove. Remove wire racks and the cover from the bottom of the oven. Remove the heat deflector which is held on with a single nut. Remove the screws that hold the cavity that houses the igniter and the burner. The igniter is held in place by a protective bracket that has to be reused. I slid the old igniter out of the protective bracket and then removed the cavity by allowing the burner and igniter to exit through an opening in the rear of the cavity. The drawer (broiler pan storage) had to be removed to remove the two screws to an access panel that allowed access to the igniter connector. After disconnecting the old igniter, I fished the new igniter connector through the back of the oven to connect it. I use masking tape to hold the access panel in place while reinserting and tightening the two screws. Replace the cavity that houses the igniter and burner. Slide the protective cover over the igniter. Realign and secure the burn and igniter assembly by reinserting and tightening the necessary screws. Reinserting and tighten the screws around the igniter/burner cavity. Replace the heat deflector by tightening the nut. Replace the cover that covers the bottom of the oven and the wire racks. Reinsert the drawer. Slide the door over the hinges and reinsert and tighten the two screws.

looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .

of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.