ACS3350AS0 Amana Range - Instructions

i read other stories and found after checking rotating heat switch with ohm meter found the igniter was the problem, pulled up on door and it came off, found bottom of oven pulled up and out, removed wing nut from deflector and two bolts and one wiring connector, just reversed removal to install new igniter and all complete, took about 20 minutes,

I took out the oven racks. There are 2 cross head screws and 1 screw with a hex head holding the igniter. Pulling out the igniter carefully and the wire nuts also came out. Replaced the wires using the existing wirenuts and slid the igniter into place. Replaced the 3 screws and DONE. Wish the igniters were a little cheaper as this is the third one to go weak. The new one draws about 3.2 amps while the old one only drew 2.85Amps, not enough to open the gas valve. Oven works Fine now. Thanks parts select for the rapid delivery.

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a way to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.

PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.

Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal may not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.

Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.

1. Removed drawer
2.Removed back panel (2 screws).
3. Disconnected power line from old igniter
4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter.
5. Replaced with new igniter.
Works like new.

I replaced the Oven Igniter. With a ohmn meter I checked the resistance on the Igniter and there was nothing there. I figured the module had to see some kind of resistance to turn the gas on. The Oven now works after replacing the Oven Igniter, but the Broiler still will not light. I will check the resistance on the Broiler Igniter and see what is going on there.
The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance.
To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.