A310S Maytag Washer - Instructions

Turn the water supply off. Disconnected the hot and cold hoses from wahing machine. Unplugged the machine from power supply. Removed two screws holding the water inlet valve to the machine frame.
Took the old valve out and marked the wire connectors. Removed the wire connectors and the remaining hose from the old valve. Took the new valve and connected the wires paying attention to the markings made earlier. Uses the little adapter hose which came with the new valve to make the new hose connection on the outlet side of the valve. Put everything back and it worked fine.
These partselect guys are very prompt in sending the things you order. I have used them many times and am very happy to deal with these guys.

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

My washer is very old but in very good condition, it was my mothers when I was a teenager and now I am 50! This is the first repair ever done on it, my son was sure I should just buy a new one but my daughter and I had other ideas. We went on line and looked it up and followed easy directions and found the small part that was leaking right away.It had just worn out. we then ordered the parts for under $20.00 and within a few day's it was here and we were back in the laundry washing. Thank you soooo much, we are not going to let this one down with my son for some time =)

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.

My wife got the washer for free but the elbow where the water is released got snapped off when it was removed from its previous location. I looked up the schematics online, ordered the part, and it came a day and a half later. The installation video on the PartSelect.com website was perfect. I followed it step-by-step and installed the part in just a few minutes. The hardest part was hooking up the washer without leaks. Everything went great and I will definitely use the service again when needed. Best part? My wife is happy.

I turned the water off, detached the hoses and unscrewed the water inlet valve. I unhocked the wires and reattached the wires in the correct sequence on the water inlet valve. Done in 15 minutes.

Found the 35 year old Water injector hose was dry, brittle, and cracked. Found the new part online at a reasonable price, but was unsure if the seal came with it or not. At $3 it was worth the gamble to buy the seal. Turns out that it did come with it so in another 35 years, I'll be ready ;-) Simple replacement of the hose, one hose clamp and fitting the lip of the new seal into the hole in the top of the tub. Access was gained quickly by removing the front panel (2 phillips screws) then removing 2 sheet metal screws in the front top corners and swinging the hinged top upwards. Piece of cake.

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

First I removed the 4 screws holding the old elbow in place. Then I removed the screw holding the cover over the upper access hole on the below the syphon break elbow. I reached up through the access hole and removed the old elbow from the inside. I slid the new elbow up through the hole, aligned it with the housing plate and then screwed the screws back in to hold it in place. I had to cut about 3" off my old drain hose, because the outside diameter of the old syphon break elbow was about 1/16" larger and had stretched the end of the hose too much to fit tightly on the new elbow. I then attached the drain hose to the new elbow and tightened the hose clamp and reinserted the hose into the drain and pushed the washer back into place. (I used the old hose clamp rather than the one included with the new elbow because it still worked fine and looked sturdier than the enclosed one.)

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.