Product Description
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit Specifications
This kit comes with hub assembly, agitator seal and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Maytag Washer Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Will not agitate
This part works with the following products:
Washer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, International, Jenn-Air.
Part# 6-2095720 replaces these:
AP4390013, 1478842, 6-2095720, 2-11148, 2-11457, 2-1537, 2-2521, 2-4012, 201537, 202521, 204012, 211148, 211457, 22001556, 22001648, 22204012, 82-012, J28-621
Customer Reviews
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
Sandy F - July 16, 2023
Verified Purchase
Exactly what was needed.
The hardest part of the repair was getting the old part off! Once that was accomplished the rest was easy peasy thanks to the instructions/video on this site. Machine is working like new.
Murray M - April 22, 2023
Verified Purchase
Replacing tub seal and bushing to fix leak
The parts required to fix the problem were easy to find, arrived within a few days and the video of how to install was a very good explanation and the repair went well. Machine is running like new again. Thank you for your assistance
Richard H - December 19, 2020
Verified Purchase
The online instructions were very helpful
The parts made it here quickly and was relatively easy to put on. It has solved my leaking problem
Gary B - November 4, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair, works as expected
The part was new in the box. It was easy to replace and my washing machine is now working normally again.
Ryan F - July 19, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair and parts came quick!
Everything was great from the order to the install. Great place to buy parts to keep your ol reliable machine running. Thanks
Richard Y - May 27, 2020
Verified Purchase
easy repair
perfect fit
Tom M - April 15, 2020
Verified Purchase
No problem
Took apart monday morning order parts at noon, received the new ports at noon tuesday repaired washing machine no problems done by 4:00 PM and ready to use washer.
William I - April 1, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Parts came in early with easy to understand instructions and the washing machine is working like a new machine again. My wife is happy and smiling!!
Gordon S - October 8, 2018
Verified Purchase
Very happy with delivery and parts quality leak repaired!
Parts selection was easy with Maytag appliance model #. Instruction video excellent, parts arrived quickly, install very easy. Would recommend you offer a tub nut wrench for sale for this repair. I purchased an inexpensive cast tub nut wrench from another vendor which made job easy. If I had to use a hammer and punch or screw driver to loosen and tighten tub nuts could se this would be difficult and parts could be easily damaged.
Ernie M - August 30, 2018
Verified Purchase
Thank you !!!
This company is amazing to deal with, part fit perfectly and the install video was a big help as well because who would have ever known it was left hand thread. Thanks so much part select !!!!
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 40 reviews.
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water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag washers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
Other Parts Used:
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douglas from bonita springs, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
523 of 545 people
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Washer Leaking and Spin Cycle stopping frequenly
* Remove front Panel
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK
Other Parts Used:
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Dan from Mason, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
206 of 219 people
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leaked water when agitating in wash cycle
First I removed the screws that held the side panels on at the bottom, then I removed the screws that held the front panel on and removed the panel. I removed the agitator, loosened the retaining nut with a hammer and a punch, removed the bolts holding the tub springs, removed the bolts for the top panel and flipped it out of the way. Then I removed the clamp for the inner tub and pulled it out, then I pulled the outer tub out. Then I removed the seal and scrubbed the rust off the seal mating area, then installed the new seal and re-assembled the washer. It works perfectly now and no longer leaks and it is over 20 years old. This is the first bit of problem we have had out of this machine, the lonely Maytag repairman commercials are true.
Other Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lavonia, GA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
51 of 55 people
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shaft lock was damaged and agitator would not stay down in proper location
Made a 4 prong wrench from a 2" pipe coupling to remove retaining nut. Had to tap retaining washer a few times with hammer and after that it came off very easy. All other work was very easy. parts went together with ease. Saved company several $'s as we were told it was not recomended to repair and should replace washer. Under $100 for parts and a couple hours labor.
Other Parts Used:
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Beverly from Manchester, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
46 of 59 people
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Washer was leaking water onto the floor underneath
Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...
Other Parts Used:
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Eric from Bonnots Mill, MO
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
42 of 46 people
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Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.
When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.
In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.
When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.
In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.
Other Parts Used:
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Barry from Brooklyn, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Agitator shaft and agitator came up and leaked water
lifted washer top, removed front panel, took punch and hammer to loosen collar (right to loosen- left to tighten) removed tub replaced seals and o-ring. then replaced the nylon retaining ring then reassembled. all works well now no leaks. Easy fix saved $500.00
Other Parts Used:
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Johnny from Cedarburg, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
18 of 26 people
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leak at trans. stem
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!
Other Parts Used:
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Mike from Beachwood, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.
Other Parts Used:
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Jason from Clinton, OK
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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washer was leaking
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.
Other Parts Used:
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jason from euless, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
14 of 19 people
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Larry
September 8, 2017
Please verify that the bearing is not included with this kit.
For model number A9400
Hi Larry,
Thank you for your inquiry. This kit includes the spanner nut, hub assembly, and the seal. I hope that helps. Good luck.
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Odie
September 12, 2017
Do you sell the special downer wrench needed to replace tub seal
For model number LAT9416AAE
Hi Odie,
Thank you for the question. Unfortunately we do not sell the tools and you will need to contact the manufacture of the appliance.
Good luck with the repair !
10 people found this helpful.
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Shelly
March 10, 2018
The spanner nut is frozen, rusted and/or corroded in place. We are using various chemicals to get it to release-mouse milk, teflon spray, etc. Do you have suggestions for another product we could try to loosen the corrosion? Thank you for your time.
For model number LAT9206BAE
Hello Shelly,
Thanks for your question. You could try fluid film as well as any calcium, lime, and rust products. You can also use a spanner wrench with a rubber mallet to twist the nut out.
I hope this helps.
5 people found this helpful.
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Taikang Ning
January 1, 2018
Does 6 2095720 seal kit fit for Maytag washing machine lat8306aae?
For model number LAT8306AAE
Hello Taikang, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, we do show that this part is compatible to your model. Hope this helps!
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Sid Colvin
August 5, 2018
I replaced the tub seal kit and the tub bearing kit on my washer. Now the spin cycle doesn't work (it sounds like the tub is spinning but it's not). Your videos were very comprehensive and helpful. I've reviewed them again and it doesn't appear that i missed anything but wondered if there wasn't something i possibly missed. Another issue that could contribute to this would be the brake assembly-could the problem with the other two have impacted that unit as well? Thanks for your help.
For model number LAT2600AAE
Hello Sid, thank you for your question. This issue will most likely be caused by a brake that is not fully releasing but check the belts to make sure that they are not worn. Make sure the belts are adjusted correctly as well. hold the motor in position and squeeze the pump belt in the center, the interior surfaces should barely touch each other. If the belts are not worn, and are adjusted correctly, I would recommend replacing the brake assembly part number PS11743016. I hope this helps!
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Bill
January 9, 2018
Leaking water left front corner
For model number A183
Hi Bill, Thank you for the question.Unfortunately a leak in a washer can come from a lot of different areas. You can tip the appliance back to see if you can see where the leak is coming from. You can check for wear on the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit,Siphon Break Connector Kit,Water Inlet Valve or the Rubber Injector Valve. You can check the hoses for leaks as well. Hope this helps!
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Steve
January 7, 2018
Will this kit work with my model of washer to stop the leak out of the inner tub mounting bolt
For model number MVWB725BW0
Hi Steve, Thank you for the question. Sorry this kit is not listed for the model number provided. The seal kit for your appliance was only sold as part of the tub assembly. I looked up the part and it is listed as No Longer Available/Discontinued. There is no part substitutions listed. My suggestion here would be to call the manufacturer and see if they can provide you with a substitution for these part numbers. Hope this helps!
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Thomas
March 29, 2018
After cleaning off hard water buildup, retaining nut will not loosen. Having tried the correct wrench and hammer as demonstrated, any suggestions to get it loose?
For model number LAW9406AAE
Hi Thomas,
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately the only information we have for installation on this part is the installation video that we have just above the Q&A. Good luck with your repair.
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Bruce
July 31, 2018
After reinstalling mounting stem as steve instructed, the tub now spins during wash cycle. In other words, the tub should be stationary while agitator washes clothes. Spin cycle works fine with the tub spinning as required. Is this a transmission problem, or did i miss something else when also replacing brake assembly and bearing, as well as installing new belts and damper pads - all as steve did a great job of instructing? Be great to talk to steve. He has become a trusted friend.
For model number a9400
Hi Bruce,
Thank you for your question. Steve is not available to talk to. He just works on our videos. Based on what you described, if the tub is spinning when the washer is agitating, then there is an issue with the transmission and it will need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Jan
August 2, 2018
Will this fit in my machine (model #m00615, lat9306aam, sn# 11217021qz)? Also with fixing the leaking will it stop the black grease from leaking inside my machine, which gets on clothes while in the wash cycle?
For model number LAT9306AAM
Hello Jan, Thank you for contacting us. I have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you’re looking for is PartSelect Number: PS2351899. Fixing this part and leak should eliminate the grease from leaking inside the machine. Hope this helps!
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS2351899
Manufacturer Part Number: 6-2095720
Manufacturer Part Number: 6-2095720
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