A110 - Instructions

After verifying that the supply wasn't the problem, I ordered the replacement inlet valve module.

1) shut off water to machine
2) removed the hose connections from the valve
3) unplugged the washer
4) removed the plate holding the module - 1 screw
5) removed the hose clamp from the valve module to the washer inlet
6) removed the two screws holding the valve module to the plate
7) removed the 2 wire connections to each of the two solenoids.
8) Reversed all of the steps above for the new valve module.
9) checked for leaks

First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

These Maytag people know how to build stuff. I was impressed with this valve. Built really smart. After a gazillion years (about 16 or so) the valve started making a funny groaning noise and the cold water flow was very slow. Took about 15-20 minutes to fill the tub.

the inlet valve is located on the back of the washer where the hoses are connected. In fact the hose connectors are part of the valve.

To replace this valve, start by unplugging and turning off the water spigots, unscrew the two hoses from the valve. (you need a towel here, but that'll be obvious soon enough.)

Unscrew the single screw at the top of the valve bracket (the bottom of the bracket is held in place without screws.) Remove the screw holding on the sheet metal and pull the bracket out as far as you can without stretching things. Write down what colors of wire are connected, then pull off the electrical connectors.

The valve outlet is a skinny (compared to the inlet hoses) rubber hose that has a clamp to hold it in place. The clamp needs to be loosened with a 3/16" nutdriver a plier would probably work, but may be hard to get in there. Now slide the clamp further up on the hose, dislodge the rubber hose off of the old valve. Now it's free.

Reverse the steps. Believe it or not, that is all. It works great and this washer probably has another 10 year left in it.

Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

Found a very stretched, loose pump belt. Was able to pull it off pump pulley and motor pulley easily. Pushed motor assembly toward transmission pulley and removed wider drive belt. Wiped all pulleys clean. There's a double on the motor- one for drive belt, one for pump belt. Removed two hoses from pump using nutdriver. Removed pump. New pump installed. Installed two hoses on new pump. Installed drive new drive belt. Installed pump belt last. Slid pump to near farthest spot in slots. Tested for correct tension by pinching pump belt. Should be able to pinch center so two pump belt sides come within 1/4" of each other just as the spring tensioned motor mount starts to move. Pused washer back into place after external hoses connected. All new hose washers and filters on both hot and cold. Ran, checked for leaks - none! Absolutely perfect. Put front panel back on. No weird noises and drum empties perfectly every time. My wife is so pleased she's doing more loads.

It's wonderful to get accessories for this 20 year old Jenn-Air. I love it and now it looks like new.

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

i need to replace the lower oven igniter about 2-3 years
unplug the oven
open the oven door half way then slide the door up
take out both racks
push the bottom pan away from you and lift up
one screw holds the igniter on
pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug
disconnect

1. Unplug power to the washer.
2. Remove 2 screws from bottom front panel on either side. Panel then rotates out and unhooks at the top. Remove front panel
3. Remove bolts from underneath the top front on both sides using a socket.
4. Rotate the top upward to provide space to see and work.
5. From the back of the washer, remove 4 bolts using a socket around the drain tube at the upper left.
6. From the front, the siphon valve can be removed from the inside upper right.
7. From the front, unscrew the clamp holding the drain hose on the water pump housing at the bottom right front and remove the hose. Be prepared for water to drain from the hose. Remove hose and siphon valve together and discard.
8. Install new hose on new siphon valve and screw new clamp tight. Make sure the rubber ring is inserted properly on the new valve (See old valve for reference)
9. Holding the siphon valve in place, use a socket and re-attach the 4 bolts around the drain tube at the back of the washer.
10. From the front, insert the opposite end of the new hose to the water pump at the lower right front and screw the circle clamp tight. Note: Re-use existing clamp.
11. Rotate the top back down into normal position.
12. Plug the power back in and run a short cycle and watch for leaks.
13. If no leaks, re-attach bolts for the top with a socket.
14. Re-attach front panel with 2 screws. Done.

I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

I am a retired lp Gas service person so this was quite
simple for me. Replaced the oven Igniter. What amazed me I placed my order and had the Igniter less than 24 hours. thank you so much for the quick service.

Make sure to release the springs and pulleys before you try to tackle the bolts that hold the motor base to the bottom of the washer. Mine were a bit rusty and took some force to break loose. Also it's a good idea to take pictures of how everything sits before you disassemble as the pictures in the repair kit are not very clear. Other than that it was pretty straight forward. Wiring was a breeze. . . . Good luck

Removed the bottom cover and replaced the burned contact spade. Cleaned the wires and adjust the contact holder.