66513042K113 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Rolled out old, rolled in new.

I removed the old gasket simply by pulling on it. I compared its length to the length of the new gasket, figuring there would be some trimming to do -- there wasn't. The replacement was exactly the same.
I placed a mark on the center of the new gasket, and marked the center of the mounting groove. I aligned the two marks, and pushed the new gasket into the groove, starting at the center, and worked my way out towards the two ends. After getting a majority of the new gasket to seat by hand, I GENTLY used the tip of a slotted screwdriver to ensure that the New Gasket was completely snapped into place.
The fit was perfect, and no more leaks. This repair was so simple, I'm embarressed for putting it off for so long. ;)

Watched the video, it went as advertised. Easy repair and the noise is gone.

The cost part plus shipping for each piece which was described as not cleaning properly due to not spraying. Each of these prices is part plus shipping, diverter valve $28.32 diverter motor did not fix the problem diverter motor $125.08 did not fix the problem my next option is the motor assembly which comes out to $311.53. I think they lead you on with the little parts and you work your way up with the big ones expense wise at this point I will simply cut my losses and buy a new dishwasher because I'm almost at what it would cost for a new one and I've had this one for 4 years. When I went to look for what the problem was each one of these said not cleaning properly which I think now is a generic term to just go from the smallest to the largest if I'm going to replace the motor for 300 plus dollars I might as well just buy a new washer

I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed new from box and installed rollers as instructed that's all there was , very easy.

Dish rack adjuster kit W10712394: I am a fully inexperienced and non-mechanical mom who needed her dishwasher during this holiday season! It took me a little longer and seemed a little harder than the description said it would - but not by much. The dishwasher is now better than it was when we bought it. Tip 1 - The original mechanism had no screws. The replacement kit does. The kit comes with a special screw that you will need in order to use a phillips screwdriver. It would have been helpful to know that before I tried to screw the screws in and stripped the first one because none of my screwdrivers fit. 2- Instructions aren't clear and photos are a little distorted (2D rather than 3D) for a novice. I wish I'd known this request for installation instructions was coming before I finished the project so I could have taken pictures. Tip - Take pictures to submit for installation instructions for others to appreciate. Would be nice to have some kind of perk to motivate people to do the work of clarifying instructions and submitting pictures. 3 - The part that locks the sliding mechanism into place is a little tricky. That step in the instructions needs some attention. I don't know how to clarify it further but other than the problem with the screws, this is the part that consumed time that an experienced dishwasher repair person might have breezed through.

First, this replacement kit seems to be of much better quality than the factory original. I was able to remove the old adjuster from the top rack with my hands - did break a little more in the process, but as this was destined for the garbage anyway, I wasn't delicate about it. The new adjuster kit snapped together easily with clear instructions and pictures in a matter of minutes, even with a 1, 3, and 5 year old "helping." Last step requires a screwdriver. I only replaced one side, for now, and it took longer to get the old adjuster off than it did to install new. Done in under ten minutes start to finish and works perfectly!

Watched the u tube video. Very clear! He said up front what kind of screwdriver to use and it was necessary to have that kind and size of screwdriver.

The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

I took out the old one and started in the lower left corner and threaded it all around the edge to make sure the placement and length was correct. Then I came back around with a plastic spatula to firmly seat the gasket into the groove. Worked perfectly and havent had any trouble since!

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.