66513042K113 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I took a picture of the old assemblies position. Then I removed one side. It was original and held in place by plastic snaps. We followed the instructions on the first side. The metal wheel assembly and the housing have matching channel & grove so the metal fits into the channel on the housing. We accidentally placed the metal wheel assembly in the adjustment housing backwards then could not get it out and broke two small plastic tabs getting it back out. Turns out that was not a fatal error. We had a bit of difficulty determining the exact positioning of the actuator in the housing and how the housing fit to the rack. One has to really look hard at the instructions. !!!A YouTube video would be very nice for this!!! Once we had the positioning then the assembly went together very easily. The two screws went in easily with a ratchet nut driver and star bit. (an adapter is provided for those who don't have the star bit). The second side was incredibly easy since I knew exactly how to put it together the second time. First side: 20-25 min. Second side 5 min.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

1. Disconnect power at the breaker, 2. remove two wood screws fastening the dishwasher to the cabinet and slide the unit out approximately 2 inches. 3. Remove old latch strike and replace with redesigned strike. 4. Slide unit in and reattached to cabinet. 5. Remove 11 screws holding inner panel of door assembly and one screw holding user interface unit to door. 6. Disconnect snap cable to latch assembly and replace the latch unit. 7. Reassemble.

Popped out old wheel housing. Popped in replacement with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Easy.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Unplug the dishwasher,take the screws out of the coutertop,then slide dishwasher out turn it on its side. Then take a torx screwdriver and remove 2 mounting screws. Unplug the wires going into the motor and replace the motor with the new one. But you need to replace the grommet the motor shaft slides up into or it will still leak.

I released the heater element from the clips on the bottom of the waaher tub. I pulled the unit out from the wall and disconnected power. There are two slip on wire terminals on each end of the heater element accessible from the back that need to be removed. One of them was badly rusted from leaking water, which had caused the short, and had to be replaced. These terminals and the crimping tool to install them are available at any home center. I removed and discarded the old plastic nuts since one of them was damaged by arching from the short circuit. Moving around to the front of the dishwasher, I removed the old heater and installed the new one. I had ordered new rubber washers, but the new heater came with them already installed. Since one of the old ones failed and caused the leak, they are a good thing to keep around as spares anyway. I installed the new nuts and tightened them to enough to ensure that the washers made a good seal. I reconnected the wire terminals to the heater, reconnected power and moved the unit back into place. The circuit opening when the heater failed caused a "call for service" error and the controller would not allow the unit to run. You will know you have this by the "CLEAN" LED flashing seven times. Clear the diagnostics by pressing the buttons for "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" and after the controller resets, the dishwaher is ready to run. It's worked like new ever since.

Per the you tube video

Removed old parts by breaking them with a screwdriver. Insert thr stainless slide. As shown by twisting thought through wire rack the rest is easy.

Turned off power, turned off water supply and diconnected, slid out dishwasher. Removed the spray wand and tilted dishwasher to access the two nuts and disconnet the wires. Removed the two nuts using a socket. Removed the old heating element and replaced with the new one secured with new nuts ( the old ones were fine but since I bought two new ones why not). Pluged the wires back up slid the dishwasher back in hooked up the water reinstalled the spray wand cut on the water and power. Good as new.

The left side took 20 minutes the right side took 3 minutes. The instructions do not describe how to remove the old assembly but rather just assume you have already done it. It takes one minute to see how the six parts fit together and then you just have to begin disassembling the easiest piece. The final cover removal required a flat head to pry apart two pieces held together in a pressure fit with round tabs locking them in. I was worried about breaking a piece in case the new parts didn't fit properly and I would have to reinstall the old pieces temporarily but you just have to keep the faith and open it up for final removal. Installing the new parts was simple however it would be nice if the images on the instructions were of better quality. The result was perfect and the kit feels more robust than the original parts. There is nothing here an average person can't do with a screwdriver and a little patience.

Removed old tracks. Note instructions do not tell you to remove the back stops one each side.... let alone how. Installing new track is really easy. Place the old lock on the track. Strange they don't arrive with a new lock, it is just a plastic insert and must be cheap. The only tricky part is replacing the rack wheels and height adjuster. If the instructions and particularly the pictures in these, were better it would all have been a breeze. Really worth the effort though!

Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

I purchased this misguided by the official response to "Doug" on April 17, 2018, which at the time was labeled as "most helpful". This is NOT the little grommet in the center. This is a big grommet that goes no the supply pump. This is #14 in the diagram. (#15 is actually the clamp that holds it). If you are looking for the little grommet that goes on that stem on the central recirculation pump, that part is not available, it only comes fused on the sump, and for replacing the sump you have to disassemble the whole bottom part of the dishwasher, pumps, sensors, valves, hose...even this big grommet. A lot of work, and since you are at it, you might want to replace both grommets. If you need THIS big grommet (#14) only, then it is not so much work, just take out one clamp, one connected cable, and the grommet to replace. But check if your machine has reusable clamps, because if not, you might want to order a new clamp. Good luck!