5WT519SFEW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I suspected the frig thermistor so I cut wires to the original. The new part was not a direct replacement, but was adaptable. I’m not sure the frig design would allow for an OEM replacement anyway. I clipped off the useless connector on the new thermistor and spliced the thermistor in by soldering wires appropriately. That was a bit difficult due to the short available length of the wires, and it didn’t solve the problem. Since it seemed like the damper responded normally to power-off resets and diagnostics using the onboard control buttons, I decided the main control board pretty much had to be the culprit. It was. Replacing the board was a piece of cake. Only a 1/4” nutdriver required, plus maybe a small screwdriver for prying here or there. Happy to have the frig working again.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Followed online video instructions

Work just perfect

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Used a screwdriver to pry loose the old switch, swapped wires to the new switch and pushed it into the opening. Took about 2 minutes.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.