59667253602 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Simply removed the food, drawers, glass top and shelf. Snapped in the new "ladder hook"and replaced the rest.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I followed the video provided by PartsSelect and it was very good with almost every step you take. Pay particular attention to how the demonstrator stands relative to the frame and things will go a bit easier. There is one thing the video fails to do well and that is show you how the metal U-shaped rod is extracted. At best, the close-up gives you a clue rather than a sense of what is done and the verbal explanation of what it is you are trying to do with the screwdriver blade is unfortunately not detailed enough. I experimented as best I could with varying degrees of force and various positions but was taken by surprise when the rod suddenly was free and slid half-way out of the old frame. I still am not clear in my own mind what I did to free it, though I have my suspicions ;). Other than that step, the video took me through everything smoothly. One key - save everything from your old frame, you'll need it all!

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Hook just clips right into the channel in seconds.

Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Unplug refrigerator. Turn off water. Remove water line to inlet valve. Remove mounting screw. Unplug electric connection. Unhook water line out. Reverse process to install new inlet valve

SIMPLY REPLACED THEM

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?