58715072201 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the bottom covering on dishwasher and then ran it to figure out where the leak was coming from. Noticed it was dripping off hose, but not actually leaking from hose.

Unplugged dishwasher and slid it out from cabinet area (be sure to turn off and disconnect water supply)

Followed delivery tube up side of dishwasher to top of tub and noticed reminents of where water ran down side of tub.

Loosened delivery tube by plastic nut inside of tube and removed. Noticed gasket was partially depleted.

Ordered new gasket, replaced and put everything back together. (Be sure to use teflon tape on water source fitting and tighten firmly). No leaks

Removing two screws on the inside of the door alows the outside panel to slide down and detach. The soap dispenser connects with six screws and two wires. Remove the dispenser through the inside of the door. Replace, reattach and reasseble in 15 minutes.

I took the bottom parts out. This can basically be done without tools. You need a phillips to unscrew 3 screws to remove the stem. Then easily replace with the new one. Putting the spiny washing part was kinda weird because I was afraid to break the nubs off again. I took the whole bottom carriage out so I could see better, pushed down kinda hard and twisted the right way (figure out which way needs to be twisted before hand by looking through the bottom of the stem).

First I shut off the power to the dishwasher from the breaker panel. Then I removed the five screws holding the plastic top panel to the door (on the frigidaire, there is no need to remove the entire stainless steel door panel). I removed each of the four wires from the old latch (pulling the wires off required some "oomph") one by one and plugged them into the corresponding position on the new one. I did this so I would be sure to have them in the right place. I used a torx screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the old latch. I then replaced the old latch with the new one, replaced the top panel of the door, turned the breaker back on and everything was as good as new! The whole operation took maybe 20 minutes. It couldn't have been easier. The only surprises were how difficult it was to pull the wires off and the fact that the screws holding the latch were torx head.

In future, when I need parts, I will definitely use PartSelect. I have gotten parts from other sources, and this is the first place where, along with the part, you get all this advice from other DIY'ers. It's an absolutely brilliant idea and a lot of help.

This was pretty easy. It was a guess as to the problem, but there much debate , if the water isn't moving it had to be the pump, right?. So i replaced the circulation pump. 2 screws on the top and two trim screws on the bottom, and it slides right out. Then UNPLUG IT.. Take the screen out of the bottom on the inside and make sure you get all the water out or it will end up on the floor when you tip it on it's side. The directions were ok, i looked over them briefly but didn't use them. tools were, phillips srewdriver, torx driver (pump bracket srews) wire stripper/crimper (for the plug adaptor) and a heat gun, (for the heat shrink tube for the crimp connection). Overall it was pretty easy. the pump was made to be easy to replace. 45 min and back in action.

Removed screws and put new bottom gasket in old one just fell out.

Took the dishwasher out removed the two screws and the part holding the motor in and removed the motor. Received the parts, places o'rings on the motor, which came with the kit, even though I ordered the two o'rings. Replaced the motor, installed the part that holds the motor and tightened the screws. Cut the old connector off the dishwasher and replaced it with a new connector that came with the kit. Reinstalled the dishwasher, works great. Thanks for your Site.

took the door off after several failed attempts, which is easy to do - 2 scews. Then it was easier to find the channel the gasket fits into.

For all Frigidaire diswasher owners, after taking the door off, I realized it was the seal around the soap dispenser that was leaking, due to stripped screws, not the gasket. I rigged it with silicone caulk, but may have to replace that - looks easy, .

I closed on a house a few weeks back. You really don't notice issues with appliances until your living there....the walk through doesn't give you the time to really see anything hidden. Anyway - the dishwasher had appeared to be used to wash grease covered parts from a car so I pulled all the racks and filters out and placed the order for replacement parts. I saved hundreds in obtaining replacement parts verse buying a new machine - and I didn't have to sit around waiting for a repairman to do the work for me. I've made several purchases from PartSelect, and will probably making more in the near futre - Thanks!

I foloowed the others who repared the same item. I really appreciated their help and input. The only thing I would add is when they said that you only have to remove the bottom 2 screws on the inside of the dishwasher door they are absolutely correct. But don't look on the very bottom of the door like I did. They are on the inside of the door, facing inside. The bottom screw on each side. Thanks for all the help.

Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"

Unplugged the dishwasher and pulled it out. Tipped it down on its side. Removed the old and replaced the new. Re-installed and replugged it. Ran a test. Checked for leaks.

Remove and replace the door gasket. Removed the 6 phillips head screws holding the top panel cover. This gives access to the latch assembly. Remove the two screw holding the latch in place. I removed the four wires one at a time with needle nose pliers and plugged them on the right spade of the new latch assembly. This assures getting them in the correct position. I then mounted the latch with the two screws and installed the cover with the 6 screws. Job done, piece of cake.

slide out dishwasher. remove 2 screws holding motor/pump assembly in. slide out motor/pump bracket. disconnect electrical connection from motor. pull motor/pump assembly out. install new 'O' rings on new motor/pump assembly. (lube with liquid soap). install assembly. slide in motor clamp and install 2 screws. reinstall dishwasher. run test cycle. Fixed!!

replaced with new lower rack, out with the old, in with the new! Shipping was great new part arrived in 2 days! Great service, and will use again for all parts needed in the future, and will tell everyone about this site! Thanks a bunch!